Makalu II | 1986 NW Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu II in 1986 via NW Ridge, led by Glenn Fortner. Summit reached on 20th April 1986. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 955
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK286101
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Glenn Fortner
Sponsor 1986 Colorado Kangchungtse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Shipton Pass->Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1986-03-31
Summit Date 1986-04-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1986-04-21
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6700m due to altitude problem and 1 member's death
High Point (m) 6700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03),ABC(05/04,5150m),C1(09/04,5975m),C2(11/04,6475m),xxx(20/04,6700m)
Route Notes BC on big ledge just above junction of Barun & Chago Glacier C1 at Chago Glacier east of "g" and of central rock High point on NW Ridge. C2 never actually occupied but stocked with 32 man-days food and all equipment and fuel ready for climb planned to sleep there for first time on 12th April; all doing well and in good spirits. C2 to be occupied by 3 members; then Terrell got pulmonary edema that night and began to get him down at midnight and reached BC at 7:30 am 12th apparently much better but 3 pm started descent and required being carried. Got him to 16,900 ft by dark and trail too narrow to carry in dark; Sherpas summoned and next dawn began carry again but suddenly he became actually ill and died and was buried near where died. 2 members not acclimatizing well and Ken's wife had arrived with trekkers so now only 3 members returned to climb: on 17th to C1. Bruce sick again. 2 members to C2 on 18th and went on through to NW Ridge to 22,000 ft and then turned back though could have gotten to top (no technical difficulties) and slept that night at C1 - were "emotionally depleted" and had no support. Cleared mountain and left BC 20th April after giving their food to Makalu expedition. * Illness was apparent edema but some puzzling aspects and this by no means certain diagnosis (to which Dr. David Shlim of H.R.A. agrees after talking with Ruggera). Kangchungtse, Ministry of Tourism - 20 April 86 Terrell got altitude sickness at 5950m on April 11 at 2400 hours; taken to ABC at 8100 ft on April 12 by Ruggera, Madden and Langbons; arrived at ABC at 05:00 hours; Fortner, Ruggera and kitchen boy took him down from ABC towards BC and died at 5180 ft at 8:45 am on 13 April. Not decided whether to abandon climb.
Accidents 1 member dead from AMS
Achievement -
Agency Above the Clouds
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449427
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Glenn D. Fortner M 1948 USA Leader Durango, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wallace Wayne (Wally) Berg M 1955 USA Climber Leadville, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruce Hunter M 1959 USA Climber Durango, Colorado Graduate business student Details Other expeditions
Gerald Longbons M 1944 USA Climber Glenwood Springs, Colorado Alpine guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions
Ken Madden M 1951 USA Climber Durango, Colorado President, general contracting firm Details Other expeditions
Gary Charles Ruggera M 1947 USA Dep Leader/Exp Doctor Durango, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Edwin Terrell M 1954 USA Climber Santa Fe, New Mexico Ski instructor & carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK286101 AAJ Fortner, Glenn - - 61:226 (1987) -
MAK286101 MM - - - 111:11 (Sep 1986) -
MAK286101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722601/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse - - -