Makalu II | 1985 W Face-S Ridge

A France expedition to Makalu II in 1985 via W Face-S Ridge, led by Pierre Demolombe. Summit reached on 2nd November 1985. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 198
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK285302
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Demolombe
Sponsor French Expedition to Makalu II 1985
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-10-16
Summit Date 1985-11-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1985-11-08
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7450m due to disappearance of summit party
High Point (m) 7450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites LowBC(16/10,4800m),ABC(25/10,5400m),C1(28/10,5800m),C2(29/10,6250m),C3(31/10,6700m),xxx(7400m+)
Route Notes BC near Barun Pokhari ABC at west side Chago Glacier C3 under Makalu La C4 possibly made by Demolombe and Margaine at Makalu La after others left them. 1st summit bid on 1st Nov by four members and two reached Makalu La, other two 100m lower. Turned back because late in the afternoon snow bad quality and 180 km wind and route now 50-55 degrees steep. All four returned to C3 and tent broken by wind icefall during night. 2nd Nov two members again tried for top while other three to ABC (two climbers never seen again). Other members spent 2 days at ABC, and 2 days at low BC, then 8th Nov to BC and left BC on 9th Nov leaving cooks and porters but no French members. Demolombe and Margaine "very determined" to reach summit, may have made several attempts; left BC to meet four trekking members at Lukla. Jeanvoine and Moutel came to KTM 15 Nov by helicopter, Baillet comes today by scheduled flight from Tumlingtar; Germain ex-Tumlingtar on 18 or 19 Nov. Trekkers have not returned to France. Moutel and Jeanvoine wait at least several days in Kathmandu for others return and flights to France; may move from Tushita to another hotel if decide to wait very long. Ashok Basnet, Great Himalayan Adventures Trekking - 26 Nov 85 Two members have a little frostbite in toes: Dominique and Christian Baillet. Came by helicopter which attempted search for missing men but helicopter could not go above 7000m; saw nothing. No more searches, no more hope for 2 missing men. Dr. Moutel and frostbitten men have gone home. BC staff have now returned to KTM as have other 4 climbers. Messner - 13 Feb 86 Messner and Kammerlander found two bodies, one near the Makalu La and the other below it, during their own attempt on Makalu earlier this month. The one near the col was lying down but without backpack, down parka or gloves; one body remains where found, the other put into a crevasse. Messner believes they are the two men missing on Makalu II in 1985 autumn French team. Reinhold Messner - 14 Feb 86 I have a feeling they did reach summit before they died. it looked as though Demolambe died of exhaustion and freezing near Makalu La, the other man tried to make it down alone and failed. Messner now knows the body near the col is Demolambe after having a telephone conversation with someone close to him and having described his clothing, etc.
Accidents Demolombe and Margaine disappeared (bodies found later by Messner and Kammerlander early 1986)
Achievement -
Agency Great Himalayan Adventure (GHA)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449257
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-s ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian Baillet M 1948 France Climber Sceaux, Hauts-de-Seine, France Insurance salesman Details Other expeditions
Francoise Baillet F 1950 France Trekker Sceaux, Hauts-de-Seine, France Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Pierre Demolombe M 1937 France Leader Nogent-le-Phaye, Chartres, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jacques Germain M 1957 France Climber Auriol, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Technician with Posts, Telephone and Telegraph Details Other expeditions
Denis Jeanvoine M 1959 France Climber Val d'Agol, Vosges, France Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Marcel Margaine M 1959 France Climber Vagney, Vosges, France Forestry technician Details Other expeditions
Roland Martelin M 1949 France Exp Doctor Romans, Drome, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Dominique Moutel M 1947 France Exp Doctor Genissieux, Drome, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Marie Helene Moutel F 1948 France Trekker Genissieux, Drome, France Laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Monique Robert F 1951 France Trekker Romans, Drome, France Nurse Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK285302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:219-220 (1986) -
MAK285302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621903/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Tragedy - - -