Makalu II | 1983 NW Ridge

A USA expedition to Makalu II in 1983 via NW Ridge, led by John Mueller. Summit reached on 12th April 1983. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1648
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK283101
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders John Mueller
Sponsor Cowboys on Makalu II
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-03-24
Summit Date 1983-04-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1983-04-14
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather with wind and heavy snow at the high camp
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/03,4740m),ABC(04,5275),C1(11/04,5790m),xxx(12/04,6100m)
Route Notes After delay getting to BC, winds came up after 2 and half weeks fine weather, gales which kept them awake. Then while establishing ABC, Mueller injured by twisting ankle on moraine and put out of action. Then Hanson got slight altitude sickness and route required 4 people in the style geared for there and weather bad with wind and heavy snow at the high camp.
Accidents Only Mueller's twisted ankle
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448320
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
C. James (Jim) Frush M 1950 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Attorney Details Other expeditions
Kurt Hanson M 1952 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Michael Hill M 1953 USA Climber Arlington, Washington Manufacturing engineer (Boeing) Details Other expeditions
John Mueller M 1956 USA Leader Edmonds, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK283101 AAJ Mueller, John - - 58:231 (1984) -
MAK283101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423102/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-II-Attempt - - -