Makalu II | 1982 S Face

A Spain expedition to Makalu II in 1982 via S Face, led by Carlos Ochoa. Summit reached on 21st April 1982. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1680
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK282101
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Carlos Ochoa
Sponsor Basque Kangchuntse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-04-05
Summit Date 1982-04-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1982-04-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7350m due to horrible weather
High Point (m) 7350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,4800m),C1(10/04,5300m),C2(12/04,6200m),C3(18/04,6600m),C4(20/04,7000m),xxx(21/04,7350m)
Route Notes Tried alpine-style from C1 after having carried loads there. 4 went with 2 tents (except Ollaquindia) and food for 5-6 days on 18 April. One day snowstorm at C3 with strong wind. 20th April again up to 7000m. 21 April made summit attack and reached 7350m. Icy slope (45-50 degrees) which was most interesting part of climb. Began to snow and did not feel strong enough and went back to 7000m. 22 April very bad weather all day and ran out of food so went down to C2. 23 April to C1 was worst day, horrible weather. Made no other climbing attempts because all men climbing all the time and carrying the loads so tired and no food. No acclimatization trouble, no accidents or frostbite. Route = South Face = Terray is route; did not go to NW Ridge because wanted quick ascent with their food shortage. Last section this route would require time to fixed rope. Ochoa Route = NW Ridge up: ski descent by 1 member All 5 members arrived 7 March, leave KTM 18 March by truck to Dharan Arrive BC about 4 April at 4800-5000m 2 camps before Ridge C1 6000m C2 6500m base of NW Ridge C2 7000m - midridge if necessary; if ridge in good condition, no C3 but alpine-style above C2 About 4 weeks climb = early May on top No Sherpas above BC Medical oxygen only.
Accidents No accidents or frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447963
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Ignacio (Axto) Apellaniz Aguiriano M 1954 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain City government employee Details Other expeditions
Inigo Barandiaran Uralde M 1952 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carlos Ochoa M 1955 Spain Leader San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Imanol Ollaquindia M 1958 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Student Details Other expeditions
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK282101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:221-222 (1983) -
MAK282101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322103/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Makalu-II-Attempt - - -