Makalu II | 1981 NW Ridge

A W Germany expedition to Makalu II in 1981 via NW Ridge, led by Bernhard Guenther. Summit reached on 12th April 1981. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1827
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK281101
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Bernhard Guenther
Sponsor Allgaeuer Himalayan Makalu II Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Barun Glacier
Basecamp Date 1981-03-25
Summit Date 1981-04-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to deep snow
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(4900m),BC(25/03,5300m),C1(01/04,6000m),xxx(12/04,7000m)
Route Notes Bernhard Guenther - 24 Feb 81 Makalu II, NW Ridge (Japanese route) Little food, much wind and snow; summit not reached. BC - 4900m BC2 - 5300m C1 - 6000m about 1 or 2 April Too much time for load carrying in fixed-camp method, so above C1 on skis with bivouacs. 11 and 12 April reached about 7000m by Franz Seeberger and Luis Sinz. Martin Anwander reached 6700m. Leader only to 6000m because of poor acclimatization. All members arrived KTM 22 April; staying in Tukuche Peak Rest House No accidents or frostbite. All well. Leave KTM next week. Guenther & Seeberger - 3 March 81 All members now here; leave KTM 6 March to Tumlingtar. Route maybe East Ridge; in any case put BC at foot of Chago Glacier, climb up Glacier to Makalu La. From pass go either north up South Ridge or cross pass and go round right of South Ridge to East Ridge. Oxygen medical only. Guenther - 18 Feb 81 Route from Makalu La up South Ridge, same as French 1954. Total 4 climbing members; others arrived 22 Feb and 1 March. No Sherpas above BC Leave KTM 4 March to Tumlingtar on scheduled flight Arrive BC in 10-12 days depending on snow 4 weeks maybe 5 weeks climbing BC 5400m 2 camps above BC: C1 - 6100-6200m C2 - 7000m Hotel Cozy - 2 March, 9:00 Nep Tkg, J. P. Lama, Topyang Lama - 4 Feb 81 Germany Makalu II arrived 1 March; leave 3 March for Tumlingtar. Leader probably Bernhard Guenther who arrived KTM middle Feb.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447588
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Anwander M 1948 W Germany Climber Hinterstein, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernhard Guenther M 1952 W Germany Leader Waltenhofen, Bavaria, W Germany Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth Schneid F 1955 W Germany Member Haldenwang, Bavaria, W Germany Nurse Details Other expeditions
Franz Seeberger M 1949 W Germany Climber Kempten, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alois (Luis) Sinz M 1955 W Germany Climber Weiler im Allgau, Bavaria, W Germany Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Hans Speck M 1936 W Germany Member Wangen im Allgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Salesman Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK281101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:208 (1982) -
MAK281101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220802/Asia-Nepal-Kanchungtse-Makalu-II-Attempt - - -