Makalu II | 1980 W side of S Ridge

A UK expedition to Makalu II in 1980 via W side of S Ridge, led by Doug Scott. Summit reached on 5th October 1980. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2941
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK280301
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W side of S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Doug Scott
Sponsor British Makalu Expedition 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, France, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-09-16
Summit Date 1980-10-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1980-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7678
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Makalu (MAKA-803-01); climbed Shershon Northwest (SHNW-803-01)
Campsites BC(16/09,4800m),ABC(20/09,5400m),C1(01/10,5800m),C2(02/10,6400m),C3(03/10,6700m),C4(04/10,7400m),Smt(05/10)
Route Notes BC for Makalu II, 20 Sept 5400m/17,700 feet Makalu II summit - 5 Oct via South Ridge Scott, Bettembourg (ski descent), Baxter-Jones BC for Makalu I - 15,000 feet, about 10-12 Oct Highest point - 26,500 feet, 20 Oct via SE Ridge Baxter-Jones tried solo ascent on west side; reached 500 feet above Makalu La (which is 7400m) on NW Ridge. Doug Scott - 19 Oct 88 Kangchungtse, autumn 1980 Scott's team climbed the left side of South Ridge, a different route from the normal South Ridge route. Doug Scott - 1 Nov 80 Makalu II: climbed variation French 1954 route on South Ridge from Makalu La by Scott, Baxter-Jones and Bettembourg; had BC at 17,700 feet. No fixed camps above BC, just moving camps was excellent acclimatization. At 24,000 feet was with top of Mount Blanc. Climbed half dozen peaks on west side of Chago Glacier. Bettembourg skied all way from Makalu II summit to 19,000 feet - from top to Col one day, 2 days later to 19,000 feet and moraines.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route True
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID MAKA80301
Checksum 2447398
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w side of s ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott M 1941 UK Leader Nottingham, E Midlands, England Author & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Roger Gregory Baxter-Jones M 1950 UK Climber Ilford, Essex, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Georges Bettembourg M 1950 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Arianne-Simone Giobellina F 1951 Switzerland Climber La Citronelle, Leysin, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Margaret Anne (Maggie) Standen F 1950 Australia BC Manager Sydney, NSW, Australia Herbalist (prescribes herbs for medical treatment) Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.