Makalu II | 1979 NW Ridge (to 7420m)

A W Germany expedition to Makalu II in 1979 via NW Ridge (to 7420m), led by Gerhard Lenser. Summit reached on 9th October 1979. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2124
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK279301
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge (to 7420m)
Route 2 E Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Gerhard Lenser
Sponsor German Makalu Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 4th-7th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-09-08
Summit Date 1979-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7678
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 7
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Minor peaks W of Chago Glacier
Campsites BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5300m),C1(17/09,5750m),C2(28/09,6520m),C3(04/10,7000m),C4(08/10,7420m),Smt(09,12,15,17/10)
Route Notes Lenser - 7 Nov 79 Climbed point 6170m at south end of Chago Glacier by Braun, Rutz, Pochen on 16th Sept (6170m) & 23 Sept (Pochan). Also point 6250m NNW of point 6170m by Rutz, Lenser and Sonam Girme on 18th Sept. Weichert and Sonam Girme climbed E Ridge of Makalu II. Never went above Makalu Col on top NW Ridge of Makalu I. Postcard from Stefan Woerner to a friend in Switzerland, dated Base Camp, 5450m, 28th Sept says: "The work on the mountain is very hard but however we hope to reach the summit around Oct 10th" Winkler - 14 Oct 79 Winkler and Schlamp came by helicopter to KTM 13 Oct after having walked ex-BC 8 Oct. Schlamp no climber. Winkler unhappy with Lenser's attempt. Mailrunner said saddle reached c6th between Makalu I and Makalu II at 7400m. Braun has hemmoroids; gone back up to ABC. C2 put at 6500m - date not known Pochan strong climber. Lenser - 6 Aug 79 Route = NW Ridge - new route BC where French 1955 had C1 at foot of ridge from point 6350m at 5300m C1 6400m = French C3 C2 7400m in North Col Makalu II from Col if try this peak at all - a fall back peak C4 7700m on very steep NW Ridge and rocks very smooth; may traverse around and put one tent at 7700m. C4 or C5 at 8100m on ridge in good place, near top but difficult rock climbing. 12 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sonam Girme 200 porters 6 weeks for climb - top 15 Oct if at BC 1 Sept 4 members arrive Sept 8 or 9 and fly by helicopter to Sedua 2100m on 11 Sept. 40 oxygen bottles; can be used for climbing by those who wish. Abandoned attempt on Makalu I By 19 Oct - did not actually go above North Col to try Makalu I. Climbed 2 minor peaks west of Chago Glacier.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447035
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge (to 7420m)

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Braun M 1952 Switzerland Climber Uznach, St. Gallen, Switzerland Forester & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Adolf Froehlich M 1935 Switzerland Climber Raperswil, Zurich, Switzerland Sanitary engineer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Lenser M 1929 W Germany Leader Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Philatelist and publisher of stamp albums, postcards & maps Details Other expeditions
Ronald Pochon M 1947 USA Climber Leadville, Colorado Geologist Details Other expeditions
Peter Rutz M 1950 Switzerland Climber Schlieren, Zurich, Switzerland House painter & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hans-Rainer Schlamp M 1942 W Germany Exp Doctor Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Hans-Ruedi Staub M 1937 Switzerland Climber Meikirch, Bern, Switzerland Computer technician Details Other expeditions
Heinrich Weichert M 1934 W Germany Climber Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Police officer Details Other expeditions
Juergen Winkler M 1940 W Germany Climber Wolfrathsausen, Bavaria, W Germany Photographer & alpine gude Details Other expeditions
Stefan Woerner M 1949 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Economist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Namgyal Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Kitar Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gyaltsen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK279301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:605 (1980) -
MAK279301 AAJ - - - 55:246 (1981) -
MAK279301 MM - - - 71:13 (Jan 1980) -
MAK279301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124601/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-II-or-Kangchungtse-1976 - - -
MAK279301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060503/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Makalu-II - - -