Makalu II | 1979 NW Ridge (to 7420m)
A W Germany expedition to Makalu II in 1979 via NW Ridge (to 7420m), led by Gerhard Lenser. Summit reached on 9th October 1979. 17 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2124 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAK279301 |
| Peak ID | MAK2 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge (to 7420m) |
| Route 2 | E Ridge |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | W Germany |
| Leaders | Gerhard Lenser |
| Sponsor | German Makalu Expedition 1979 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 4th-7th |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Switzerland, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-09-08 |
| Summit Date | 1979-10-09 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 31 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7678 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 8 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 12 |
| Summit Hired | 7 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Minor peaks W of Chago Glacier |
| Campsites | BC(08/09,4700m),ABC(17/09,5300m),C1(17/09,5750m),C2(28/09,6520m),C3(04/10,7000m),C4(08/10,7420m),Smt(09,12,15,17/10) |
| Route Notes | Lenser - 7 Nov 79 Climbed point 6170m at south end of Chago Glacier by Braun, Rutz, Pochen on 16th Sept (6170m) & 23 Sept (Pochan). Also point 6250m NNW of point 6170m by Rutz, Lenser and Sonam Girme on 18th Sept. Weichert and Sonam Girme climbed E Ridge of Makalu II. Never went above Makalu Col on top NW Ridge of Makalu I. Postcard from Stefan Woerner to a friend in Switzerland, dated Base Camp, 5450m, 28th Sept says: "The work on the mountain is very hard but however we hope to reach the summit around Oct 10th" Winkler - 14 Oct 79 Winkler and Schlamp came by helicopter to KTM 13 Oct after having walked ex-BC 8 Oct. Schlamp no climber. Winkler unhappy with Lenser's attempt. Mailrunner said saddle reached c6th between Makalu I and Makalu II at 7400m. Braun has hemmoroids; gone back up to ABC. C2 put at 6500m - date not known Pochan strong climber. Lenser - 6 Aug 79 Route = NW Ridge - new route BC where French 1955 had C1 at foot of ridge from point 6350m at 5300m C1 6400m = French C3 C2 7400m in North Col Makalu II from Col if try this peak at all - a fall back peak C4 7700m on very steep NW Ridge and rocks very smooth; may traverse around and put one tent at 7700m. C4 or C5 at 8100m on ridge in good place, near top but difficult rock climbing. 12 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sonam Girme 200 porters 6 weeks for climb - top 15 Oct if at BC 1 Sept 4 members arrive Sept 8 or 9 and fly by helicopter to Sedua 2100m on 11 Sept. 40 oxygen bottles; can be used for climbing by those who wish. Abandoned attempt on Makalu I By 19 Oct - did not actually go above North Col to try Makalu I. Climbed 2 minor peaks west of Chago Glacier. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447035 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge (to 7420m) |
Members
17 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin Braun | M | 1952 | Switzerland | Climber | Uznach, St. Gallen, Switzerland | Forester & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Adolf Froehlich | M | 1935 | Switzerland | Climber | Raperswil, Zurich, Switzerland | Sanitary engineer & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerhard Lenser | M | 1929 | W Germany | Leader | Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Philatelist and publisher of stamp albums, postcards & maps | Details Other expeditions |
| Ronald Pochon | M | 1947 | USA | Climber | Leadville, Colorado | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Rutz | M | 1950 | Switzerland | Climber | Schlieren, Zurich, Switzerland | House painter & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans-Rainer Schlamp | M | 1942 | W Germany | Exp Doctor | Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein, W Germany | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans-Ruedi Staub | M | 1937 | Switzerland | Climber | Meikirch, Bern, Switzerland | Computer technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Heinrich Weichert | M | 1934 | W Germany | Climber | Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Police officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Juergen Winkler | M | 1940 | W Germany | Climber | Wolfrathsausen, Bavaria, W Germany | Photographer & alpine gude | Details Other expeditions |
| Stefan Woerner | M | 1949 | Switzerland | Climber | Zurich, Switzerland | Economist & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Rita Sherpa | M | 1948 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yilajung, Khumbu | High-altitude porter | Details Other expeditions |
| Sonam Girme Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Namgyal Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurba Kitar Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Nima Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Nima Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gyaltsen Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAK279301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 53:605 (1980) | - |
| MAK279301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 55:246 (1981) | - |
| MAK279301 | MM | - | - | - | 71:13 (Jan 1980) | - |
| MAK279301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124601/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-II-or-Kangchungtse-1976 | - | - | - |
| MAK279301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060503/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-Makalu-II | - | - | - |