Makalu II | 1976 NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Makalu II in 1976 via NW Ridge, led by Shuji Yasukawa. Summit reached on 13th October 1976. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2193
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK276301
Peak ID MAK2
Year 1976
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shuji Yasukawa
Sponsor Seppyo Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1976-09-03
Summit Date 1976-10-13
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 40
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7678
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,5040m),C1(11/09,5400m),C2(17/09,5920m),C3(26/09,6500m),C4(10/10,7200m),Smt(13/10)
Route Notes Yasukawa - 30 Oct 76 C4 made by Mamoru Ohkoba and Lhakpa Norbu 10 Oct. Difficult rock slabs about 200m at 7400m = most difficult part of climb 1st summit attempt 12 Oct by Minoru Kaneko and Hideki Yoshioka from C4, but difficult slabs slowed them and had no time to reach top; returned to C4 after reaching 7400m and having put in 200m fixed rope for 2nd team next day's success. Other attempts prevented by 1) food exhausted 2) very cold, strong wind. Kaneko and Nara slight frostbitten toes. Others coming to KTM within a week. Yasukawa - 8 Aug 76 Route is NW Ridge route same as Japanese expedition 1972 spring [reached 7000m]. No oxygen (except for medical use) 4 HA Sherpas and 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy and 1 mailrunner 2 members now in Kathmandu (arrive 5 Aug) and 5 others come 10 Aug Leave KTM about 17 Aug; by bus to Biratnagar if possible, otherwise by plane to Biratnagar; caravan from Dharan to BC 3 weeks. C5 about 7200m. C3 to C4 ice wall but not so difficult; difficult part is ridge which "I think is knife ridge." 1 month climbing up: summit about middle October: 2 or 4 men, 1 or 2 teams.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445941
Year 1976
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shintaro Hashira M 1946 Japan Climber Matsuyama, Shikoku, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Minoru Kaneko M 1952 Japan Climber Miura, Kanagawa, Japan At present unemployed; most recently worked in sporting goods Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Nara M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Mamoru Ohkoba M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Yoshikazu Onoe M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Shuji Yasukawa M 1946 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yoshioka M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Bookkeeper, Hitachi Electric Co. Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Kitchen Boy - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
MAK276301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 51:239 (1977) -
MAK276301 MM - - - 53:11 (Jan 1977) -
MAK276301 IWA - - - 55:149 (1977) -
MAK276301 IWA - - - 55:31-32 (1977) -