Makalu II | 1972 NW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Makalu II in 1972 via NW Ridge, led by Tadashige Nishiyama. Summit reached on 4th May 1972. 5 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2370 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | MAK272101 |
| Peak ID | MAK2 |
| Year | 1972 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Tadashige Nishiyama |
| Sponsor | Kanchungtse Reconnaissance Exp from Denki-Tsushin Univ |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1972-04-04 |
| Summit Date | 1972-05-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 14 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7000m due to lack of supplies for summit bid (recce only) |
| High Point (m) | 7000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 5 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(04/04,4800m),C1(09/04,5230m),C2(15/04,5800m),C3(20/04,6320m),C4(04/05,6700m),xxx(06/05,7000m) |
| Route Notes | 7 members arrived NW Ridge after setting C4 at 6700m on 6 May (by Ito and 1 Sherpa). No C5 because no tent; this time recce party only. This ridge possible: "some difficult, not very." Did not try other peaks because supplies for 40 days only and 39 days on Kangchungtse. No accidents, no illness. For 25 days no members in BC. All in high camps. When come back to BC on 9 May money gone. Lost $1450 + Rs 7000 in BC; C1 $150 + Rs 28,000 in money boxes which broken open in BC - Rs 1000 left in Rs 1 Notes. I may sent expedition again in 1974 to go to to summit. Last year Japanese try only 200m climbing only reached 6500m, but not yet on ridge which is 7000m. Kangchungtse and other peaks around Pyramid, Junction Peak. NW Ridge, same as last fall's Japanese expedition BC in Barun Glacier at about 4800m; go to about 6800m. 5 members, 4 arrived today Leave KTM about one week from now LO to be assigned from MFA |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444314 |
| Year | 1972 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
5 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tadashige Nishiyama | M | 1938 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Shibaura Institute of Technology | Details Other expeditions |
| Yousuke Ito | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Teacher at Japan Electronics Technical College | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiro Saito | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Hayama, Kanagawa, Japan | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Misturu Mori | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Fujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeo Yoshino | M | - | Japan | General Manager | Tokyo, Japan | Assistant professor, University of Electro-Communications | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MAK272101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 47:481 (1973) | - |
| MAK272101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348102/Asia-Nepal-Kangchungtse-or-Makalu-II | - | - | - |