Makalu II | 2002 S Ridge

A Spain expedition to Makalu II in 2002 via S Ridge, led by Javier Ugarte Andreva. Summit reached on 13th October 2002. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4199
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID MAK202301
Peak ID MAK2
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Javier Ugarte Andreva
Sponsor Himalaya Adventure Makalu II Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 27th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-09-29
Summit Date 2002-10-13
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 14
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2002-10-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7678
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak on 18 Sept 20m below top by both members and both Sherpas
Campsites BC(29/09,5400m),C1(04/10,6200m),C2(06/10,7000m),Smt(13/10)
Route Notes BC at above glacier junction C1 at Chago Glacier C2 at below Makalu La Could not make C2 at Makalu La because trekking agent's tent not good enough for wind-swept pass. 10 Oct could go down and went to BC because of dangerous snow conditions. 7th Oct made first attempt on summit and almost to Makalu La (to 7300m) by both members and both Sherpas at 12:00 noon, too late for summit bid and down to C2 that night. Then bad weather on 8th and 9th and now not possible to go up or down because of avalanching. 10 Oct to BC. Decided to make 2nd bid and go very fast with ropes already fixed between C2 and 7300m. 12 Oct 8:00 am both Sherpas and Ugarte started up (Sofia remained in BC) and in C2 at 5:30 pm, very cold, very windy but loads very light. 13 Oct 2:00 am 3 climbers up from C2 in dark and no room: climbed on East Face of South Ridge to 20-25m below top and here joined ridge and to top via ridge 2:00 pm. Ugarte exhausted at top; Sherpas also very tired at top. "I don't know how we reached the summit, but we did" and stayed there only 10-15 minutes and down from top on east side of ridge because very steep down ridge. Reached C2 at sunset 6:00 pm and slept there. Down from C2 5:30 am at sunrise to BC at 11:00 am. Left BC same day because Sherpas had to get to KTM quickly for another group. Down via Hillary BC, to Jark Kharka that night, then down to Tashigaon. 18 Oct arrived Khandbari and 19th Tumlingtar and KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Adventures
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455418
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sofia Twose Navajas F 1970 Spain Climber Alfaro, La Rioja, Spain Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Javier Ugarte Andreva M 1974 Spain Leader Logrono, La Rioja, Spain County council officer Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Harishe, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.