Langshisa Ri | 1994 WNW Face up; S Face down

A Slovenia expedition to Langshisa Ri in 1994 via WNW Face up; S Face down, led by Vanja Furlan. Summit reached on 8th October 1994. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1359
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSIS94301
Peak ID LSIS
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 WNW Face up; S Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Vanja Furlan
Sponsor Slovenia 1994 Langshisa Ri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dunche
Basecamp Date 1994-09-27
Summit Date 1994-10-08
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 11
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1994-10-11
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6412
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Morimoto
Campsites BC(27/09,4150m),Biv(07/10,5820m),C1(08/10,5700m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes BC at Langshisa Kharka Biv at WNW Face in ascent C1 at plateau at bottom of South Face in descent. Furlan thinks correct altitude of summit is 6330m (from his very accurate altimeter). First did 2 acclimatization climbs: (1) on opposite site of valley up Morimoto peak 5260m, where biv there on its ascent face night of 30 Sept and down to BC next day; (2) 2 Oct went to NZ BC to plateau under South Face of Langshisa Ri at 5700m biv night and next day down to BC (1st climb was to see his route, 2nd to see normal route for his descent. Rested till summit push on WNW Face started 7th Oct at 11:30 am entirely alone (as had been on accliamtization climbs also). Face starts at 4700m and 2 very big and dangerous seracs so climbed a rock ridge between these seracs as safest line (top of ridge was 5360m). Left ridge at 5360m (was difficult climbing some parts of this complicated ridge); quite nice climbing on this ridge which had sun therefore warm rock. 2 pitches grade 5, some grade 4, rest grade 3. Reached bergschrund in serac (5820m) 8:30 pm and biv here for the night without sleeping bag (to save weight because had to take 2 ropes for descent of S Face), so cold night. 8th Oct started at 6:30 am up upper part steepest part of route, never less than 60 degrees & place 80 degrees, where had to traverse rock with bad snow on it and very difficult move. Rest of snow in upper part snow excellent (it was frozen - not ice). Reached SW Ridge 110m below top and followed right side of ridge just over to summit at 12 noon. From delicate traverse at about 5920m at 8 am climb was straightforward with no special problem ("beautiful climbing" here). At top quite cold and some wind so stayed 10 minutes briefly by walkie-talkie to doctor below and took photos. Descended ridge to where had left rucksack at 110m below top, then traversed 100m on South Face to normal route and down this route, rapelling almost all the way to the plateau at bottom of S Face which reached 5:20 pm when getting dark and he so tired he decided to biv here. 9th Oct down to bottom of mountain and around to BC (from 8 am to 12 noon). "I'm really happy because everything went just as I planned them and as I hoped they would go; I did everything by myself, found sponsors myself, planned it myself, climbed it alone and I feel very good."
Accidents Nothing
Achievement 1st alpine-style ascent; 1st solo ascent; 1st ascent of WNW Face; 1st traverse; 1st Slovenian-Yugo attempt
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452483
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) wnw face up; s face down

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vanja Anton Furlan M 1966 Slovenia Leader Novo Mesto, Slovenia Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Matjaz Vrtovec M 1949 Slovenia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia Physician (internal medicine) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSIS94301 AAJ Furlan, Vanja - - 69:247 (1995) -
LSIS94301 HIGH - - - 151:11-12 (Jun 1995) -
LSIS94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199524701/Langshisha-Ri-West-Northwest-Face - - -