Langshisa Ri | 1986 S Face-SW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Langshisa Ri in 1986 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Martin Hunter. Summit reached on 14th April 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 964
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSIS86101
Peak ID LSIS
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Martin Hunter
Sponsor New Zealand Langshisa Ri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-08
Summit Date 1986-04-14
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 6
Total Days 8
Termination Date 1986-04-16
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6412
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4500m),C1(12/04,5700m),Smt(14/04)
Route Notes BC at 4500m at Langshisa Glacier C1 at 5700m on plateau up against SW Ridge by all 5 members. No technical difficulties from BC to C1, just long slog. 13 April did recce from plateau and next day and technical climb to summit. Left C1 at 3:30 am and 1st pair got to top after 9 hrs. Had 50m snow gully which was soft snow and thus slow but only about 40 degrees. Next was hard ice 45-60 degrees face with rock band through it which was moderately difficult. Had good weather on summit day. Notes: 1)-> C1 up a snow-covered scree slope. Must be done early in the day. Much avalanche danger at the end of the day. (Time with 20 kg about 9 hours from BC->C1). At the top of scree slope is a col from where a traverse/gentle climb is made to the plateau. Either of two routes can be used: (a) around the bottom of the ridge which involves one "difficult" section on which the Japanese fixed ropes, or (b) over a snowy part of the ridge which is straightforward but hard work. 2) C1 - windscoop beside rocks about 100 ft above the plateau. 3) C1 - summit->C1 14 or 15 hours. Up a steep snow gully (30-45 degree) then onto hard ice about 200m from the top, 7 pitches of 45-60 degree ice, long run outs.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st New Zealand ascent
Agency White Magic
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449376
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simon Cox M 1964 New Zealand Deputy Leader Dunedin, New Zealand Student, geology Details Other expeditions
John Goulstone M 1961 New Zealand Climber Auckland, New Zealand Laborer Details Other expeditions
Martin David Hunter M 1963 New Zealand Leader Johnsonville, Wellington, New Zealand Law student Details Other expeditions
Kirsten Jane Simonsen F 1961 New Zealand BC Manager Dunedin, New Zealand Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Steve Upton M 1965 New Zealand Climber Auckland, New Zealand Outdoor education instructor Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSIS86101 AAJ Hunter, Martin - - 61:244 (1987) -
LSIS86101 HJ Hunter, Martin New Zealand Langshisha Ri Expedition, 1986 - 43:116-118 (1985-1986) -
LSIS86101 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
LSIS86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724402/Asia-Nepal-Langsisha-Ri - - -
LSIS86101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ - - -