Lhotse Shar | 1998 SE Ridge-SE Face-E Ridge

A Russia expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1998 via SE Ridge-SE Face-E Ridge, led by Vladimir Savkov. Summit reached on 1st November 1998. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3205
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR98301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge-SE Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Vladimir Savkov
Sponsor Kuzbass Russia Lhotse Shar Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via Chhukung
Basecamp Date 1998-09-17
Summit Date 1998-11-01
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 45
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1998-11-03
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 5000
Total Members 17
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/09,5200m),C1(20/09,5700m),C2(25/09,6500m),C3(10/10,7300m),C4(16/10,7800m),Smt(01/11)
Route Notes BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak C1 at start of SE Ridge C2 at glacier of SE Ridge C3 at glacier of SE Face C4 at glacier of SE Face. 27 Sept avalanche near C2 and quickly to BC and wait for better weather (snowfall to stop). 5 Oct made camp at 7000m and moved camp to 7300m on difficult SE Face. Icefall which changed very quickly and needed re-fixing rope; fixed 5000m rope and needed more but had no more. After C4 again bad weather (snowfall and very strong wind) and summit bid on 17 Nov stopped at 8000m and down to BC and Dingboche. Other members tried for top about 25 Oct from C4. Winds and cold stopped them on arrival at East Ridge at 8019m and down to BC. On 1 Nov success: 26 Oct from BC to C1; arrived C4 29 Oct; tried for top on 30th but cold and winds stopped them at 8100m and back to C4; waited in C4 while very strong winds covered tent with snow. 1st Nov very good weather: no wind, no snowfall, very clear but very cold (-28 degrees C). Left C4 1 Nov 6:00 am, reached top on very route with no rope to fix on last 500m at 5:00 pm. Did not reach C4 till 4:00 am in full moonlight moving very slowly (-40 degree night) now climb finished because no more time returned BC 2 Nov. Had "dreamed" of traversing to Lhotse Middle Summit but would need a C5 near summit, route would be very difficult and probably better to try from Lhotse Main Summit. 20 Nov 98 - Russian mountain guide returned from trekking peak: Russian Press reported (early in autumn or earlier) team planned traverse Lhotse Shar -> Lhotse Middle Peak -> Lhotse Main Peak -> Everest.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453972
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge-se face-e ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anna Akinina F 1968 Russia Climber Tomsk, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Valeri Babanov M 1964 Russia Climber Omsk, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Olga Chilenina F 1963 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Amangueldy Eleuchev M 1960 Russia Climber Tomsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Ermilov M 1955 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Alexander Foigt M 1958 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanislav Krylov M 1961 Russia Climber Tomsk, Russia Construction works manager Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Loubushkin M 1959 Russia Exp Doctor (C1 only) Kemerovo, Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Juri Outechev M 1955 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Savkov M 1957 Russia Leader Novokuznetsk, Russia Airline pilot Details Other expeditions
Gleb Sokolov M 1953 Russia Climber Novosibirsk, Siberia, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Sokolov M 1942 Russia Climber Zlatoust, Chalyabinsk, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Stalkovski M 1961 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Timofeev M 1957 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Sergei Zoev M 1956 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Luobova Zoeva F 1955 Russia Climber Kemerovo, Russia Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR98301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:375 (1999) -
LSHR98301 HIGH - - - 198:36 (May 1999) -
LSHR98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937501/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Ascent - - -