Lhotse Shar | 1990 S Ridge-SE Ridge
A Spain expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1990 via S Ridge-SE Ridge, led by Merce Macia. Summit reached on 8th October 1990. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 707 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LSHR90301 |
| Peak ID | LSHR |
| Year | 1990 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Merce Macia |
| Sponsor | Mataro Expedition to Himalaya - Lhotse Shar |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 8th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1990-08-23 |
| Summit Date | 1990-10-08 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8382 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 3000 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/08,5200m),C1(02/09,5750m),C2(10/09,6250m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7350m),Biv(07/10,7900m),Smt(08/10) |
| Route Notes | BC east of Island Peak's point 5357 on National Geographic map. Badiola and Valles made bivouac at 7900m and on 7th Oct as planned during climb; no C5 because with no Sherpas. Spanish members had worked hard and some not well acclimatized. 3000m rope fixed from C1 to C4 up difficult route. C2, C3 and C4 were snow caves because of strong winds; lots of snow ridge with windslabs, which they carefully avoided. Reached top at 11:00 am in clear day in strong wind (which caused Soviets on Lhotse S Face to freeze feet during biv without tent). Spanish bivouacked in small tent, which was blown into Tibet with sleeping bags, etc.; only 1 pole left of biv. Summiters went down to C4 in snow cave; Valles no frostbite, but Badiola slightly frostbitten toes. Last 5m to top 90 degrees ice and very technical climbing and necessary to rapell down this section; top had big cornices. Macia turned back at 7500m on 6th Oct because not well acclimatized. Had been climbing on 6th with Valles and Badiola. She was only other member to go above C4. |
| Accidents | Only 2 members have frostbitten toes which will heal |
| Achievement | 1st Spanish to any Lhotse summit |
| Agency | Kunga |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451018 |
| Year | 1990 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge-se ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Manu Badiola Otegi | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Oredeta, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Bus driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Jordi Homs Brustenga | M | 1960 | Spain | Exp Doctor | Rubi, Barcelona, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Maria Mercedes (Merce) Macia Armengol | F | 1956 | Spain | Leader | Mataro, Barcelona, Spain | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Marin Casanovas | M | 1963 | Spain | Climber | Mataro, Barcelona, Spain | Builder | Details Other expeditions |
| Manuel Punsola Mitjans | M | 1947 | Spain | Climber | Mataro, Barcelona, Spain | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Miquel Sala Roy | M | 1949 | Spain | Climber | Mataro, Barcelona, Spain | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jose Luis Sasot Soriano | M | 1962 | Spain | Climber | Barcelona, Spain | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Pedro Torres Sanroma | M | 1961 | Spain | Climber | Mataro, Barcelona, Spain | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Carles Valles Ocana | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Barcelona, Spain | Wholesaler of shoes | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LSHR90301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 65:220 (1991) | - |
| LSHR90301 | - | Valles, Carles | La Realidad de un Sueno | L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain | - | V121 |
| LSHR90301 | MM | - | - | - | 137:8 (Jan 1991) | - |
| LSHR90301 | OTH | Cingles Magazine | - | - | 72:302-320 (Oct 1990) | - |
| LSHR90301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122002/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar | - | - | - |