Lhotse Shar | 1990 S Ridge-SE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1990 via S Ridge-SE Ridge, led by Merce Macia. Summit reached on 8th October 1990. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 707
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR90301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Merce Macia
Sponsor Mataro Expedition to Himalaya - Lhotse Shar
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-08-23
Summit Date 1990-10-08
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 46
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/08,5200m),C1(02/09,5750m),C2(10/09,6250m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(25/09,7350m),Biv(07/10,7900m),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes BC east of Island Peak's point 5357 on National Geographic map. Badiola and Valles made bivouac at 7900m and on 7th Oct as planned during climb; no C5 because with no Sherpas. Spanish members had worked hard and some not well acclimatized. 3000m rope fixed from C1 to C4 up difficult route. C2, C3 and C4 were snow caves because of strong winds; lots of snow ridge with windslabs, which they carefully avoided. Reached top at 11:00 am in clear day in strong wind (which caused Soviets on Lhotse S Face to freeze feet during biv without tent). Spanish bivouacked in small tent, which was blown into Tibet with sleeping bags, etc.; only 1 pole left of biv. Summiters went down to C4 in snow cave; Valles no frostbite, but Badiola slightly frostbitten toes. Last 5m to top 90 degrees ice and very technical climbing and necessary to rapell down this section; top had big cornices. Macia turned back at 7500m on 6th Oct because not well acclimatized. Had been climbing on 6th with Valles and Badiola. She was only other member to go above C4.
Accidents Only 2 members have frostbitten toes which will heal
Achievement 1st Spanish to any Lhotse summit
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451018
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Manu Badiola Otegi M 1954 Spain Climber Oredeta, Guipuzcoa, Spain Bus driver Details Other expeditions
Jordi Homs Brustenga M 1960 Spain Exp Doctor Rubi, Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Maria Mercedes (Merce) Macia Armengol F 1956 Spain Leader Mataro, Barcelona, Spain Secretary Details Other expeditions
Victor Marin Casanovas M 1963 Spain Climber Mataro, Barcelona, Spain Builder Details Other expeditions
Manuel Punsola Mitjans M 1947 Spain Climber Mataro, Barcelona, Spain Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Miquel Sala Roy M 1949 Spain Climber Mataro, Barcelona, Spain Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Sasot Soriano M 1962 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Pedro Torres Sanroma M 1961 Spain Climber Mataro, Barcelona, Spain Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Carles Valles Ocana M 1958 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Wholesaler of shoes Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR90301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:220 (1991) -
LSHR90301 - Valles, Carles La Realidad de un Sueno L'Aixernador Editions, Argentona, Spain - V121
LSHR90301 MM - - - 137:8 (Jan 1991) -
LSHR90301 OTH Cingles Magazine - - 72:302-320 (Oct 1990) -
LSHR90301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199122002/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -