Lhotse Shar | 1988 SE Face

A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1988 via SE Face, led by Bruno Jelk. Summit reached on 28th October 1988. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 874
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR88301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Bruno Jelk
Sponsor Lhotse Expedition 1988 Zermatt
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-09-23
Summit Date 1988-10-28
Summit Time 1255
Summit Days 35
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak (by all members over 5 weeks); had permit for Lhotse, but did not attempt
Campsites BC(23/09,5300m),C1(30/09,5750m),C2(03/10,6100m),C3(12/10,6840m),C4(21/10,7500m),Biv(27/10,7800m),Smt(28/10)
Route Notes BC at north side (base) of Island Peak C1 at top of 1st big rocks where glacier starts C2 at 1st big icefall (at top of it) on SE Face C3 on SE Face C4 on SE Face Biv at near point where SE Ridge meets SE Face (snowcave). 1st team [Jelk and Brigger on 20 Oct] turned back at 7500m because of strong wind. 2nd summit team of Imboden and Ferrari [on 24 Oct] to 8000m where ridge is flat but narrow; turned back because feared fog would come and prevent finding C5 on return. 4 days later Imboden and Willi made successful bid. Technically not difficult but altitude problem and necessary to be extremely careful on such an exposed route; above C4 is very steep. "We had enough trouble getting to top of Lhotse Shar." Ridge to Lhotse is very dangerous and difficult cornices and towers at high altitude. No attempt to go to Lhotse or Lhotse Intermediate. "Had same problem with Germans" who wanted to climb Swiss fixed ropes; "matter of too many" cause for refusal to let Germans on ropes.
Accidents Imboden frostbitten nose, toes and fingers but will heal
Achievement -
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450306
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dany Biner M 1963 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hugo Biner M 1963 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philipp Biner M 1962 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Leo Brigger M 1944 Switzerland Climber Graechen, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Dupertuis M 1960 Switzerland Climber Randa, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andreas Fux M 1960 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mauro Ferrari M 1950 Switzerland Climber St. Niklaus, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Viktor Imboden M 1939 Switzerland Climber Taesch, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Jelk M 1943 Switzerland Leader Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Heiri Julen M 1963 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Othmar Kronig M 1938 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eduard Kuonen M 1945 Switzerland Exp Doctor Saas-Fee, Valais, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Kurt Laubert M 1961 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Benedikt Perren M 1965 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pius Schnidrig M 1950 Switzerland Climber Graechen, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Henry Willi M 1960 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR88301 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 63:198 (1989) -
LSHR88301 MM - - - 125:10 (Jan 1989) -
LSHR88301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198919804/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -