Lhotse Shar | 1987 SE Ridge

A UK expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1987 via SE Ridge, led by Adrian Burgess. Summit reached on 27th September 1987. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 298
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR87302
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Adrian Burgess
Sponsor Lhotse Shar Expedition 1987
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-08-28
Summit Date 1987-09-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1987-10-21
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/08,5200m),C1(03/09,5800m),C2.Biv(17/09,6700m),xxx(27/09,7000m)
Route Notes BC at normal Lhotse Shar BC site beside Lhotse Shar Glacier C1 at normal C1 site (platforms are there) C2 on SE Ridge High point on SE Ridge. Above C1 had cave where had stash of supplies but not a permanently fixed camp. Occupied it 1st on 17th and down 18th. Back up to cave 26th. On 27th at 7000m, avalanched an hour before Spaniards were higher up. This was highest point. Down to BC, up to C1, down, up to C2 again 7th Oct and again very nearly to 7000m but snow conditions so very dangerous (unconsolidated snow with 4-inch slab above it) came down again and asked to change route to Spaniards' route. Permit for route change took 8 days and then storm hit, dumped huge amount of snow at BC where Burgess's tent buried in 1-1/2m of snow and would not have survived. Others had similar devastation from avalanching that fatally hit Island Peak, so climb finished when learned of Island Peak disaster.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Sagarmatha
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449908
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Leader Boulder, Colorado Alpinist & window-cleaner Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Fitness instructor Details Other expeditions
Joseph (Joe) Frank M 1953 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Geologist & mountaineer Details Other expeditions
Richard A. (Dick) Jackson M 1950 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR87302 AAJ Burgess, Adrian - - 62:201 (1988) -
LSHR87302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820101/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-East-Ridge-Attempt - - -