Lhotse Shar | 1987 SE Ridge (from Pt 5700m on Col)

A France expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1987 via SE Ridge (from Pt 5700m on Col), led by Alain Esteve. Summit reached on 20th May 1987. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 256
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR87102
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge (from Pt 5700m on Col)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Alain Esteve
Sponsor Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries India, Nepal
Approach Chhukung->W side of Lhotse Glacier
Basecamp Date 1987-04-12
Summit Date 1987-05-20
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Lhotse (had permit, did not attempt) (LHOT-871-02)
Campsites BC(12/04,5250m),C1(14/04,5750m),C2A(20/04,6500m),C2B(27/04,6200m),C3(01/05,7000m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes BC at Lhotse Glacier west side, west of Island Peak C1 same as Yugoslav C1 at small pass north of point 5700m C2A at 6500m on SW Ridge (but very windy and tents destroyed) C2B at 6200m near Yugoslav C2 on SW Ridge C3 near serac near meeting of SW and SE Ridge. Had permit for East Ridge before came to Kathmandu. In February took flight over area and decided too great danger of many seracs making constant passage through area below and also of avalanches. After arrival at BC sent 1 member and LO to Kathmandu and obtained permit for SE Ridge, same route as Yugoslavs. In early May 16 tried to put C4 at 7500m or 7600m, but wind prevented this (an in earlier days, also deep snow); so managed to dump supplies at 7300m. Decided on 14 May not to attempt C4 but go directly from C3 to Lhotse Shar. Very early May decided traverse not possible because: (1) were late on mountain (2) winds, which were factor in being late in their progress Say Yugoslavs had come one month earlier and still only in C3. Also 3 traverses too difficult for relatively inexperienced French members. 1st attempt for summit 17th May from C3 by Flematti, Sharma and Pasang Sherpa; when reached SE Ridge 8200m found wind too strong and decided to fix rope only and down to BC. On 18th Gramond went to deposit and then when little wind got to 8200m alone; then ridge dangerous and he did not want to continue solo and to C3. 19th evening Tedeschi, Esteve, Royer and Sange Sherpa to C3 and awoke at 10:00 pm and started up at 11:45 pm. At 7600m Esteve and Royer turned back because frostbite threatening then and now there were no fixed rope. Sange stopped ascent at 8250m because he was afraid of ridges dangers. Tedeschi continued to top alone and to C3 very tired (to BC on 21st). On 22nd Mailly, Nima Norbu and Kikami Sherpa tried for top from C3; Kikami to 7400m (tired) and Mailly, Nima Norbu to 7600m (wind and cold). Climb finished: all members very tired and all camps empty of food and gas supplies. 8 May Esteve and Grammond (pilot and passenger respectively) flew from C3 (7000m) to near BC at about 5300m (NE of BC in parachute like a glider). 1st time from such altitude by this type of parachute. Had obtained permit to climb East Ridge, but after aerial view of this ridge, team decided it was exposed to too much danger from avalanching and many seracs overhanging route they would have to follow. They sent a member and their liaison officer to Kathmandu to get permission for the Yugoslav's SE Ridge route. (They had also planned to make a traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse's main summit via the unclimbed intermediate summit at the mountain, and traverse would be too difficult for the relatively inexperienced French members.) Between 6th and 13th May, team tried four times to pitch a C4 at 7500-7600m, but first deep snow and then winds prevented this. On the 14th they decided to go directly from C3 to the Lhotse Shar summit. Four attempts were made to reach this peak, but only one member of the third party succeeded because of strong winds, threatened frostbite and fear of the dangers on the ridge.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st French ascent; 1st parachute; 1st French army ascent of 8000m on summit
Agency Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449778
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge (from pt 5700m on col)

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Xavier Bigard M 1951 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician (Major in Army Medical Corps) Details Other expeditions
Guy Donzey M 1947 France Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Infantry Captain (alpine guide & ski instructor) Details Other expeditions
Alain Esteve M 1952 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Army Infantry Captain (helicopter pilot) Details Other expeditions
Robert Flematti M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eric Gramond M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant, infantry & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lionel Mailly M 1959 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Adjutant, Infantry; alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Philippe Renard M 1962 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Adjutant, Infantry Details Other expeditions
Pierre Alain Royer M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Adjutant, Infantry; alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Daniel Semblanet M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide in civilian in military school Details Other expeditions
Rajiv Sharma M 1954 India Climber Manali, Kulu, HP, India Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Nima Norbu Sherpa M 1951 Nepal Climber Darjeeling, India Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Yves Tedeschi M 1960 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant, artillery Details Other expeditions
Gerald Tresallet M 1960 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Sergeant major, artillery; alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Sange Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kikami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR87102 AAJ Esteve, Alain - - 62:200 (1988) -
LSHR87102 HJ Esteve, Captain Alain Victory Over Lhotse Shar - 44:174-176 (1986-1987) -
LSHR87102 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
LSHR87102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820002/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -
LSHR87102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/27/expeditions-and-notes-44/ - - -