Lhotse Shar | 1986 S Face-SE Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1986 via S Face-SE Face, led by Manuel Casas. Summit reached on 28th October 1986. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 904
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR86301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Manuel Casas
Sponsor Spanish Expedition to Lhotse Shar
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-20
Summit Date 1986-10-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to Lopez's fall (team were old friends)
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2800
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,5250m),C1(28/09,5200m),C2(10/10,6250m),C3(22/10,6800m),C4(28/10,7400m),xxx(28,30/10,7400m)
Route Notes BC at 5250m right side of Lhotse Shar Glacier near East Face of Island Peak C1 at 5200m at 200m above col 5700m north of Island Peak C2 at 6250m on ridge south of SE Face (same ridge as C2)=ridge on S Face C3 at 6800m on S Face (middle of S Face in ice on same ridge) C4 at 7400m on SE Face (never occupied) High point at 7400m on SE Face. SE Face very easy: no problem climbing it (which reached at 7300m from S Face, which is very hard). S Face difficulty very step ice halfway up and above that rock - very steep 3000m. Fixed rope from below C1 to 7300m on entire SE Face; total 2800m fixed rope because very steep but snow stuck total. C4 site reached by several parties making route and placing loads 28th and on 30th Oct. Lopez and Sanchez went to C4 to sleep there and go for summit. Lopez only 10m below C4 when he fell. Planned to make biv or C5 at 8000m and summit 1st or 2nd Nov. Lopez and Dr were at 7400m when Lopez fell entire face (2400m) on 30 Oct 5:00 pm. Doctor went to search and then had to biv in dark and cold, returned to BC next day with badly frostbitten 9 fingers. Lopez body not found by all searchers. Sanchez to KTM by helicopter; if no infection may not lose parts of fingers. No other problems.
Accidents Lopez fell entire face (2400m), Sanchez went to search and bivouaced in dark & cold, returned to BC with badly frostbitten 9 fingers (if no infection may not lose parts of fingers), Lopez body not found; no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Annapurna Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449573
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-se face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alvaro Almendral Munoz M 1956 Spain Climber Malpartida de Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Manuel Aparicio Zaragaga M 1959 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Crystalizer? Details Other expeditions
Jose Ramon Bacelar Azpeitia M 1954 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions
Manuel Casas Martin M 1955 Spain Leader Caceres, Spain Geographer Details Other expeditions
Pedro Alonso Lopez M 1956 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Economist Details Other expeditions
Eduardo Martinez Mediero M 1952 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Airplane pilot Details Other expeditions
Jesus Moreno Martin M 1960 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Radio technician Details Other expeditions
Pablo Gonzalez Campos M 1960 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Decorator Details Other expeditions
Ramon Rodriguez Mateos M 1962 Spain Climber Plasencia, Caceres, Spain Radio technician Details Other expeditions
Javier Sanchez Vegas M 1956 Spain Exp Doctor Caceres, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR86301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:233 (1987) -
LSHR86301 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
LSHR86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723301/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Tragedy - - -