Lhotse Shar | 1986 SE Ridge for acclimatization (to 7000m)

A UK expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1986 via SE Ridge for acclimatization (to 7000m), led by Sandy Allan, Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 9th May 1986. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 956
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR86101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge for acclimatization (to 7000m)
Route 2 New route on S Pillar (Face) (no attempt)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Sandy Allan, Malcolm Duff
Sponsor British Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-19
Summit Date 1986-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Primary attempt abandoned at 7000m due to Duff's injury
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,5300m),C1(30/04,5670m),C2(01/05,6400m),xxx(09/05,7000m)
Route Notes BC at 5300m below SE Face on Lhotse Shar Glacier south of Island Peak C1 at 5670m on a buttress C2 at 6400m on SE Face in snow hole above rock barrier High point at 7000m at SE Face. First attempt on SE Face abandoned after Duff's injury. Allan later joined by Alison Hargreaves for second attempt on SE Face. This attempt abandoned at 6500m due to slab avalanches. Original plan was for new route on S Face (this route never attempted). 7th May went up from BC, slept at C2 on 8th left at midnight and got to 23,000 ft at 6:00 am 9th May and Duff hit by falling serac, so both descended immediately and were back in BC 4:00 pm to Pheriche 10th. Duff left expedition and Alison Hargreaves joined Allan 15th at Dingboche after he had packed up BC; they then went back to try for top while Duff came to Kathmandu.
Accidents Duff hit by falling serac on head on May 8 (bled, partly unconcious and left expedition, will have brain scan in London)
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449401
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge for acclimatization (to 7000m)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan M 1955 UK Co-Leader Beauly, Highland, Scotland Oil-exploration worker & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Co-Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR86101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:233 (1987) -
LSHR86101 MM - - - 110:9 (Jul 1986) -
LSHR86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723302/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt - - -