Lhotse Shar | 1983 SE Ridge
A Italy expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1983 via SE Ridge, led by Giancarlo Riva. Summit reached on 20th April 1983. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1518 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LSHR83101 |
| Peak ID | LSHR |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Giancarlo Riva |
| Sponsor | Alpine Expedition City of Lecco Himalaya 1983 to Lhotse Shar |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-03-31 |
| Summit Date | 1983-04-20 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 20 |
| Total Days | 26 |
| Termination Date | 1983-04-26 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6985m due to bad weather |
| High Point (m) | 6985 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(31/03,5300m),C1(02/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6600m),xxx(20/04,6985m) |
| Route Notes | BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier northwest of Island Peak. Site for C3 = high point plus 15m but not reached because bad weather: snow fall heavy and avalanche danger too acute. Young members wanted to stay on, but Riva called whole thing off and weather continued bad while they waited for porters to arrive. Winds impossible even in BC, 3 days bad weather for every 1 day of good; and avalanching danger. Winds of 100-150 km/hr and 40 cm snow almost daily. Would have had to stay one month more to succeed but in one more month climbers bodies deteriorate too much at altitude. Could succeed in good weather. Route difficulties not a problem in technicalities for this team, just constant strong wind and snowfall. |
| Accidents | None except 1 case altitude illness |
| Achievement | 63-year-old doctor left early because of altitude sickness |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448283 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Giuseppe (Det) Alippi | M | 1934 | Italy | Climber | Abbadia Lariana, Lecco, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Luigi (Gigi) Alippi | M | 1936 | Italy | Climber | Piani Resinelli, Lecco, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marco Ballerini | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Franco Baravalle | M | 1920 | Italy | Climber | Volpedo, Alessandria, Italy | Pharmacist | Details Other expeditions |
| Floriano Castelnuovo | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Conti | M | 1944 | Italy | Deputy Leader | Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marco Della Santa | M | 1959 | Italy | Climber | Piani Resinelli, Lecco, Italy | Worker in steel plant | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Fumagalli | M | 1939 | Italy | Climber | Calolziocorte, Lecco, Italy | Worker in steel plant | Details Other expeditions |
| Alessandro (Sandro) Liati | M | 1931 | Italy | Climber | Cassano Magnago, Varese, Italy | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Magni | M | 1955 | Italy | Climber | Missaglia, Como, Italy | Computer company manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Ezio Molteni | M | 1945 | Italy | Climber | Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Negri | M | 1945 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Giancarlo Riva | M | 1927 | Italy | Leader | Vercurago, Lecco, Italy | Manager of Lecco office of an international transport company | Details Other expeditions |
| Noberto Riva | M | 1958 | Italy | Climber | Carate Brianza, Milano, Italy | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Giuseppe Rusconi | M | 1956 | Italy | Climber | Valmadrera, Lecco, Italy | Worker in steel plant | Details Other expeditions |
| Dario Spreafico | M | 1962 | Italy | Climber | Lecco, Italy | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LSHR83101 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 58:238 (1984) | - |
| LSHR83101 | MM | - | - | - | 92:9 (Jul 1983) | - |
| LSHR83101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423801/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt | - | - | - |