Lhotse Shar | 1983 SE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1983 via SE Ridge, led by Giancarlo Riva. Summit reached on 20th April 1983. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1518
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR83101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giancarlo Riva
Sponsor Alpine Expedition City of Lecco Himalaya 1983 to Lhotse Shar
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-03-31
Summit Date 1983-04-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1983-04-26
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6985m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6985
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03,5300m),C1(02/04,6100m),C2(09/04,6600m),xxx(20/04,6985m)
Route Notes BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier northwest of Island Peak. Site for C3 = high point plus 15m but not reached because bad weather: snow fall heavy and avalanche danger too acute. Young members wanted to stay on, but Riva called whole thing off and weather continued bad while they waited for porters to arrive. Winds impossible even in BC, 3 days bad weather for every 1 day of good; and avalanching danger. Winds of 100-150 km/hr and 40 cm snow almost daily. Would have had to stay one month more to succeed but in one more month climbers bodies deteriorate too much at altitude. Could succeed in good weather. Route difficulties not a problem in technicalities for this team, just constant strong wind and snowfall.
Accidents None except 1 case altitude illness
Achievement 63-year-old doctor left early because of altitude sickness
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448283
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giuseppe (Det) Alippi M 1934 Italy Climber Abbadia Lariana, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luigi (Gigi) Alippi M 1936 Italy Climber Piani Resinelli, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marco Ballerini M 1957 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Franco Baravalle M 1920 Italy Climber Volpedo, Alessandria, Italy Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Floriano Castelnuovo M 1956 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Mario Conti M 1944 Italy Deputy Leader Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marco Della Santa M 1959 Italy Climber Piani Resinelli, Lecco, Italy Worker in steel plant Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Fumagalli M 1939 Italy Climber Calolziocorte, Lecco, Italy Worker in steel plant Details Other expeditions
Alessandro (Sandro) Liati M 1931 Italy Climber Cassano Magnago, Varese, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Roberto Magni M 1955 Italy Climber Missaglia, Como, Italy Computer company manager Details Other expeditions
Ezio Molteni M 1945 Italy Climber Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Negri M 1945 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Riva M 1927 Italy Leader Vercurago, Lecco, Italy Manager of Lecco office of an international transport company Details Other expeditions
Noberto Riva M 1958 Italy Climber Carate Brianza, Milano, Italy Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Rusconi M 1956 Italy Climber Valmadrera, Lecco, Italy Worker in steel plant Details Other expeditions
Dario Spreafico M 1962 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR83101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:238 (1984) -
LSHR83101 MM - - - 92:9 (Jul 1983) -
LSHR83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423801/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt - - -