Lhotse Shar | 1982 SE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1982 via SE Ridge, led by Hans Berger. Summit reached on 3rd May 1982. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1683
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR82101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Hans Berger
Sponsor Swiss Lhotse Shar Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-04-06
Summit Date 1982-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7450m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,5200m),C1(13/04,6150m),C2(25/04,6650m),C3(03/05,7450m),xxx(03/05,7450m)
Route Notes 4 came down to Pheriche after 1st camp in good snow conditions; when wanted to put in 2nd camp started snowing; deep snow and avalanches; went back to mountains and put in C2 after ? hrs. walk for 100m of route; C1 to C2 is steeped and most dangerous from seracs and avalanches; after C2 put in, down to BC for rest. From C2 to C3 Sherpas did not carry so members had to do all the work. C3 placed and twice occupied; wanted to go to top on 4th but stove not working and again on 7th or 8th but storm so strong could hardly come down and many avalanches; Hans blown sideways; all but Trummer were in C3 for this attempt. High avalanches turned around and went upwards, wind was so strong in mid-April. Did not lose any tents or much equipment. Lhotse Shar in middle of snowstorms while Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest clear. Came down from C3 to BC on 8th May and that was end of climb (Sherpas up to clear lower camps after this). Route= SE Ridge with same variations on last expedition route above 1st camp. No accidents or frostbite. No technical problems above C3 but did not get above C3. Used no oxygen Erwin and Havens, Ama Dablam - 6 May 82 Lhotse Shar in mid-April. Were at Pheriche regrouping after such strong winds that avalanche going upwards. Berger and Clapasson - 24 March 82 Route = SE Ridge same as Swiss KTM 26 March to Lukla arrived BC after 10-12 days at 5300m east of Island Peak and beside Lhotse Shar Glacier. 3 camps on ridge: C1 - 6600m C2 - 7300m C3 - 7800-7900m Arrived BC around 5 April, summit 4 weaks later; 2 Sherpas above BC. Oxygen for medical use. Swiss Lhotse Shar Expedition No plan to go on to Lhotse and main peak; we are very small group. 75 porters from Lukla. Berger returns to KTM in late May - has trekking clients in Khumbu after climb.
Accidents No accidents or frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447930
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hans Berger M 1948 Switzerland Leader Davos, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alex Clapasson M 1957 Switzerland Climbing Leader Andermatt, Uri, Switzerland Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Beda Fuster M 1956 Switzerland Climber Appenzell, Appenzell Innerrhoden, Switzerland Alpine guide trainee Details Other expeditions
Anton Trummer M 1960 Switzerland Climber Scuol, Graubunden, Switzerland Cross-country ski instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR82101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:224 (1983) -
LSHR82101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322401/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt - - -