Lhotse Shar | 1981 SE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1981 via SE Ridge, led by Joseph Fauchere. Summit reached on 16th October 1981. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1795
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR81301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Joseph Fauchere
Sponsor Swiss Himalaya Expedition to Lhotse and Lhotse Shar
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1981-09-15
Summit Date 1981-10-16
Summit Time 1645
Summit Days 31
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1981-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,5200m),C1(16/09,5800m),C2,C3,C4(7150m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes Bruchez - 28 Oct 81 Climbing route was SE Ridge. 16 Oct summit by Bruchez and Hauser on Lhotse Shar. Windy but good from C4 7150m. 6 people left C4. 2 Sherpas Ang Tshering and Pasang Rita, Favez and Petten went down from 8150m to C4 because it was late 2:30 pm and decided only 2 go up. Bruchez and Hauser reached top 4:45 pm and to C4 at 9:30 pm. 2 Sherpas to C3. 2 missing Swiss simply disappeared; saw bodies 3 days later (19 Oct) on SW Face of Lhotse Shar at about 6000m. Could not go to bodies because avalanche and rock fall on face all the time. Climbing now finished anyway because weather getting bad, very very windy. Traverse would not be possible now. Left BC 24 Oct. Next day leader had fatal fall of 30 meters on trail. 26 Oct police came from Namche. Traverse is possible to intermediate and main summits and down West Face, but do not recommend back to Shar. 6 used oxygen above C4. No frostbite, had good equipment. Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 81 Swiss Lhotse and Lhotse Shar East Ridge 16 Oct 2 members reached Lhotse Shar. Top 16:45 hours: David Bruchez (28) and Jean Hauser (33); summiters returned to C3 same evening. While returning to C3 8150m after not going to top, 2 Sherpas arrived at C3 at 18:30 hours, but others Pierre Favez (38, army officer) and Philippe Petten (24, guide) did not return to C3 and until yesterday not seen. Missing as per messages from LO and leader expedition still searching for lost 2 members, message said. Date of message not known. 10 member expedition led by Fauchere. Fauchere - 25 Aug 81 Route = East Face, new route BC on Lhote Shar Glacier at 5300m 4 or 5 camps above BC; last camp at 8200m before from Lhotse Shar try to go to Lhotse Shar. No fixed camps after Lhotse Shar. Try to stay on ridge via Lhotse Intermediate. All 15 members in KTM. Leave 27 Aug by road to Lamosangu; trek 3 weeks to BC Summit of Lhotse Shar 10-15 Oct and of Lhotse about 20 Oct. Oxygen bottles 5 Sherpas above BC Most difficult part of climb is Lhotse Shar to Lhotse Main.
Accidents Leader Fauchere fell 30 metres to his death; Favre and Petten fatal falls from summit bid
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447730
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean-Michel Bourgeois M 1950 Switzerland Exp Doctor Pully, Vaud, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Urs Boutellier M 1948 Switzerland Climber Winterthur, Zurich, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Daniel Bruchez M 1953 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Angelo Colombini M 1949 Italy Climber Vanzago, Milano, Italy Laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Olivier Deriaz M 1953 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Josef Fauchere M 1946 Switzerland Leader La Forclaz, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Favez M 1942 Switzerland Climber Ollon, Vaud, Switzerland Major in Swiss Army Details Other expeditions
Daniel Giezendanner M 1948 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Chemist (not pharmacist) Details Other expeditions
Francois Gillioz M 1951 Switzerland Exp Cook Verbier, Valais, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Jean Hauser M 1948 Switzerland Climber Crans, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Maitre M 1946 Switzerland Climber Evolene, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Petten M 1957 Switzerland Climber Monthey, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Henri Rossier M 1933 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Philippe Tacchini M 1956 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Biologist Details Other expeditions
Jean-Claude Thiebaud M 1949 Switzerland Climber Les Verrieres, Neuchatel, Switzerland Teacher Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Rita Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR81301 AAJ Braham, Trevor - - 56:218-219 (1982) -
LSHR81301 MM - - - 83:10 (Jan 1982) -
LSHR81301 - Fauchere, Andree Au Peril de Leur Vie Editions Mon Village, Vaud, Switzerland - F26
LSHR81301 - Fauchere, Andree Il Est Vivant Editions Resonances, Cortaillod, Switzerland - F27
LSHR81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221803/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -