Lhotse Shar | 1981 S Ridge-SE Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1981 via S Ridge-SE Face, led by Xabier Erro Jauregui. Summit reached on 9th May 1981. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1835
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR81101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Xabier Erro Jauregui
Sponsor Lhotse Basque Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1981-04-06
Summit Date 1981-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Lhotse (LHOT-811-03)
Campsites BC(06/04,5200m),C1(12/04,5700m),C2(27/04,6800m),Biv(08/05,7200m),Biv(09/05,7550m),xxx(7550m)
Route Notes De Pablo - 23 May 81 De Pablo came by plane from Lukla 21 May; others walking and arrived KTM 25-26 May. Same route tried before unsuccessfully by Japanese De Pablo thinks. BC 5200m just east of Island Peak on 6 April Route then to col at 5700m of Island Peak (see Schneider map) C1 5700m 12 May on snowfields north-northwest of col, then route along ridge from col north and north-northeast - from col all fixed rope. C2 at 6800m, no place for it lower. 27 April 2nd tried alpine-style from C2 after 400m fixed roped to end of ridge at 7200m and after roped down for rest. Passed one night there (not really C3). De Pablo and Zabaleta were there on 8th May. 9 May arrived 7550m; slope very dangerous from avalanche, much snow. Were now at top of curve or ridge. Slept all day 10 May there in bad weather with intention to go to top of Lhotse Shar, but bad storm that night with strong wind. 11 May at 4:00 am got up to descend when one small wind avalanche carried rucksacks, etc. down Lhotse face. Men down 20m but everything else way down. Difficult now to go down in storm in 12 hours to C2 and Martin's hand frostbitten but not badly: had lost one glove and 1 crampon (got another glove at 7200m). De Pablo lost goggles and was snowblinded that night. 12 May arrived C1 and BC; others were in BC. Only 3 climbers through out climb because Erro had serious medical problem before BC [Yugoslavia Lhotse doctor thinks he had heart attack]. Lot of wind and snow this season, wind always blowing. Spanish route is difficult but safe; Austria's Lhotse Shar route was through icefall which is dangerous. Spaniards found very old fixed rope 1 mm ice probably Japanese rope. Never intended to go to Lhotse Main Peak but since Lhotse Shar not on permitted list, had to have permit for Lhotse. Used no oxygen; had four bottles at BC and one at C2. Erro - 10 March 81 Lhotse Basque Expedition 1981 Approach via Chhukung to Imja Glacier to Lhotse Shar Glacier to SE Face (1978 autumn Swiss route). BC on Lhotse South Glacier at 5200m 4 camps above BC with C4 at 7500m and then biv 4 members and 3 Sherpas only Oxygen medical only Leave KTM soon as baggage arrives and fly to Lukla. Climb Island Peak to acclimatize and see route; about 4 weeks from BC to Lhotse summit. Not sure exact route because have little information face; maybe like Lhotse West Face - traverse. Lhotse Shar high up new summit perhaps on Nepal side, perhaps on Chinese side. Have Basque flag for summit.
Accidents Zabaleta hand frostbitten; De Pablo temporary snowblindness; Erro had serious medical problem, probably heart attack
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447570
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-se face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo Benito M 1952 Spain Climber Durango, Vizcaya, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Xabier Erro Jauregui M 1946 Spain Leader Hondarribia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jose-Takolo Urbieta Cendoya M 1941 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Martin Zabaleta Larburu M 1949 Spain Climber Hernani, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR81101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:218 (1982) -
LSHR81101 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
LSHR81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221802/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt - - -