Lhotse Shar | 1978 SE Face

A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1978 via SE Face, led by Josef Fauchere. Summit reached on 24th November 1978. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2153
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR78301
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Josef Fauchere
Sponsor Swiss Belgium Lhotse - Autumn 1978
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium
Approach Khumbu Valley->Chhukung (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-11-16
Summit Date 1978-11-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 8
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1978-11-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned on 25 Nov due to terrible winds and lack of time
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/11,5300m),C1(5600m),C2(5800m),xxx(24/11,6300m)
Route Notes Expedition's goals were to scale Lhotse and do research on cardio-vascular adaptation to high altitude. Came to Nepal very late in season, delayed by professional duties at home. From 2 Dec and no wind at all on 5 Dec. On 24 Nov attempted to pitch C3 at 6400m but had to retreat 100m below its site: impossible to stay at these altitudes because of terrible wind. Left BC 29 Nov for KTM. Dr. Wibin, Swiss Lhotse Expedition - 9 Dec 78 From Col between Lhotse and Island Peak; SE Face = new route BC at 5300m on 16 Nov just when Island Peak on border of moraine; cross glacier to reach face. 2 goals: 1) to climb Lhotse 2) research on cardio-vascular adaptation to H.A. Very careful cardiac examination at Geneva University before exercise during and after with blood samples taken. Will do same again in Geneva next March (11 Dec) to see if difference in oxygen consumption by cardiac muscle after long stay at H.A. People thought could not climb 8000m without oxygen. Wind was increasing since Nov 11th and decreasing from Dec 2nd just when we came down, and almost no wind at all Dec 5th. Pilots say jet stream not yet really built up. Could not climb above 6500m so experiment not complete: members should stay for 2 weeks at least at 7000m to see effect on cardiac oxygen consumption (cardiac metabolism). If true there is effect on heart after long stay at H.A. Of importance to mountaineers and others such as Olympics at Mexico City. 9 members, leader Josef Fauchere, mountain guide; all members Swiss except Wibin who is Belgian. 4 HA Sherpas; Ang Tsering, sirdar of Namche: was on Japanese 1976 Japanese 1975 Everest Italian 1973 Everest Had 2 high camps C1 at 5600m C2 5800m During attempt to establish C3 at 6400m had to retreat because impossible to stay there with terrible wind; reached Friday 24 Nov 100m below C3 site = highest point reached. Left BC on 29 Nov to KTM. Were unable to come earlier because of professional duties at home; if come again will come earlier. Fauchere was with Dolf Reist (76) for 20th anniversary of Swiss ascent of Everest; went to Khumbu together.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446670
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Josef Fauchere M 1946 Switzerland Leader La Forclaz, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wibin M - Belgium Climber - Physician Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR78301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:267 (1979) -
LSHR78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926701/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Winter-Attempt - - -