Lhotse Shar | 1970 SE Ridge

A Austria expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1970 via SE Ridge, led by Siegfried Aeberli. Summit reached on 12th May 1970. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2478
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR70101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Siegfried Aeberli
Sponsor Tyrolean Lhotse Expedition 1970
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1970-04-04
Summit Date 1970-05-12
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 38
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1970-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,5220m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(18/04,6700m),C3(28/04,7200m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes Aeberli - 25 May 70 All arrived today ex-Lukla except Garbeis and Rolf Walter, all well. Exactly same route as Japanese. Found Japanese fixed ropes and oxygen bottles (not to use). 3000m fixed ropes from 5800m to 7300m Very difficult last 400m ridge without fixed rope at this altitude - only man to summit. From C4 7600m to 8000m without oxygen and to summit (8400m) with oxygen. Only about 5 days good weather, others snow every day. From Lhotse Shar to main summit too far and not enough Sherpas for job and ridge too difficult unless big expedition and plenty of good weather. Larcher and Sherpa reached 8200m and then oxygen mask of Larcher frozen and one man not able go alone because friends, etc and would have used rope very last 40m very steep part. Shah, MFA - 19 May 70 13 May Larcher and Sherpa Sirdar Urkien attempted to reach summit, but on the way at 8200m found some difficulty with oxygen masks and were therefore unsuccessful. 22 May leaving base camp. Liaison Officer - filed 18th. BC - 5220m, 4 April C1 - 5900m, 6 April C2 - 6700m, 18 April C3 - 7200m, 28 April Shah, MFA - 23 March 70 Lhotse expedition reached Jiri on 20 March. Hoped leave Jiri on 22nd and reach Namche on 30th March Siegfried Aeberli - 14 March 70 Leader and 1 other arrived KTM one week ago. 4 more arrived today; 1 more Dr. Gert Garbeis arrives next Saturday. Leave KTM Tuesday - by road to Lamosangu and then trek in - reach base about 18 days with change of porters in Namche - 100 porters. 9 Sherpas including Sirdar Urkien Sherpa. Leader has been here with Erwin Schneider twice but no high climbing in Nepal before. Base 5500m on Imja Glacier behind Island Peak. From south side over East Ridge to summit 8383m; highest camp perhaps 8000m; expect 5 advance camps. 3000m of fixed rope to fix. Japanese tried route in 1965 and reached 8000m - very difficult and very steep rock and snow. Letter from Siegfried Aeberli - April 30, 1970 We are glad to let you know that we established Base Camp since 4/4/70. We have in our team seven Sherpas, one cook, one kitchen boy who advanced because of his excellent service to permanent cook, as well as a few wood cutters and last not least one mailrunner. On April 6 we reached Camp I at an altitude of 5900m. There we built a comfortable ice cage plus one tent. Camp II is on a high of 6700m, the way up is extremely difficult and steep and on the whole route we have fixed ropes. Also there we have fixed ropes. Also there we have one ice-hole and one tent. There is a rope around the entrance of the tent, because the place is extremely exposed. The way to C3 is at least as difficult as to C2 and already fixed with ropes. The camp itself will be establisehd within a few days at a high of about 7100m. All the seven members are at present in the Base Camp and except one, who has slightly frozen his toes, but he is recovering. Besides that we live almost upon fresh yak meat, which we get from a yak killed at BC. The weather is until noon time always excellent, but in the afternoon usually snowing. The nights are not so cold; at Camp I we once measured 14 Degrees below O (Celcius).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443544
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Siegfried Aeberli M 1925 Austria Leader Obsteig, Tirol, Austria Director of school in Obsteig, Tirol Details Other expeditions
Hans-Joerg Koechler M 1938 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Master confectioner and baker Details Other expeditions
Walter Larcher M 1934 Austria Climber Solbad Hall, Tirol, Austria Master of electric installation and has own shop near Innsbruck Details Other expeditions
Ruediger Lutz M 1924 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Has PhD in chemistry and is 'working in my own chem lab' Details Other expeditions
Gert Garbeis M 1933 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Staff, University Hospital, Innsbruck (physician) Details Other expeditions
Josef (Sepp) Mayerl M 1937 Austria Climber Doelsach, Tirol, Austria Tiler of steeples Details Other expeditions
Rolf Walter M 1941 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Teaches zoology & gymnastics in Innsbruck school Details Other expeditions
Urkien Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR70101 AAJ - - - 45:434 (1971) -
LSHR70101 - Mayerl, Sepp Der Turm in Mir Rosenheimer Verlagshaus, Rosenheim, W Germany - M245
LSHR70101 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
LSHR70101 MM - Oldtimers on Lhotse Shar - 12:28 (Nov 1970) -
LSHR70101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Lhotse - 66:38-42 (Mar 1979) -
LSHR70101 DAV Lutz, Ruediger Tyrolean Lhotse Expedition 1970 des OAV - 97:95-102 (1972) -
LSHR70101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143402/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -