Lhotse Shar | 1965 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Lhotse Shar in 1965 via SE Ridge, led by Hisao Yoshikawa. Summit reached on 12th May 1965. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2512
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR65101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 1965
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hisao Yoshikawa
Sponsor Waseda University Alpine Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1965-03-14
Summit Date 1965-05-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 59
Total Days 70
Termination Date 1965-05-23
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8150m due to impassable gap in route
High Point (m) 8150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 3200
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/03,5350m),C1(28/03,5850m),C2(03/04,6350m),C3(08/04,6650m),C4(17/04,7050m),C5(11/05,7300m),xxx(12/05,8150m)
Route Notes Narikawa - 29 May 65 Murai high altitude tiredness. 3 members walking and 3 waiting Lukla 31st Walking from Lukla yesterday 18th April accident: climbing above 7000m and fell. Yoshikawa was with him making route. Narikawa's rock hammer hit piton and small snow avalanche harder are foot and he fell into steep gully (150m fall) but was roped and rope stopped fall. Yoshikawa had to get help from C3 because unable get him out of gully alone. Yoshikawa went to C4 no one there, then went into gully and tied Narikawa and went to C3; met Murai between C3 and C4. Murai (button thread company from Tokyo) got altitude sickness 30 April; at about 7000m when got sick. Inokuchi - 29 May 65 Most difficult part of climb (when last attack had good weather and no trouble). C3 to C4 extremely steep and covered by new snow, so tried to traverse but that too very difficult. About 3200m fixed rope between base and C5; about 1/3 of this between C3 and C4. Could have succeeded by this rotate via SW Ridge (which his few avalanches) if hadn't lost time, etc because of Narikawa accident. C5 was established at 7300m; one more reached at about 7800-7900m. Kobayashi visited base when Narikawa was in C2. Trying to go from C4 to C5 at about 7000m trying climb rock face and Narikawa slipped and fell about 50m - knocked senseless. Yoshikawa was with Narikawa and came to C4 for help and while was away unconscious Narikawa lost glove. From C4 to C2 took 10 days to bring Narikawa down because extremely steep alternately ice and rock and couldn't properly pitch tent. 1 member Murai who was helping bring him down because unable walk perhaps from shock. All members involved helping down most got slight frostbite of fingers. Narikawa bad frostbite both feet and both hands (about 28, unmarried). If accident hadn't happened could have reached summit. This main cause of failure. When Narikawa was in C2 he told others leave him, he's getting better and go climb mountain; they got to 8150m. Liaison officer - 26 May (from Namche ?) Lhotse Shar expedition unable reach summit because of bad weather. Left base for Kathmandu May 23rd. May 15th reached C5 with 2 members. Matsuura and Inokuchi and Sherpas Nawang and Phinjo reached 8150m from C5. 22 May 65 - message from Home Hamano in Lukla - 3 members cannot walk. They are trying to get Swiss plane from them - have not yet left base camp rest arrive Lukla 27th and want plane. Will wait 28-31st May - 12 members. Dated May 4 - received yesterday from liaison officer C4 established at 7100m May 4. Will have to establish 2 more camps and leave base May 15 for return. Member who was injured - severe frostbite of both fingers and toes, a few others slight frostbite. Narikawa to go to Namche Bazar, unable to walk. Weather bad - 2nd and 3rd strong blizzard.
Accidents Narikawa injured from fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441713
Year 1965
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hisao Yoshikawa M - Japan Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Teruo Matsuura M 1934 Japan Deputy Leader Japan - Details Other expeditions
Masahiko Inokuchi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Hamano M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Noboru Kaburagi M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Takaaki Narikawa M - Japan Manager Japan Journalist Details Other expeditions
Aoi Murai M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Tatsuo Sato M - Japan Climber Japan - Details Other expeditions
Seiji Yamamoto M 1939 Japan Climber Zushi, Kanagawa, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kenji Shiratori M 1939 Japan Climber Tatsuno, Nagano, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Shuzo Miyamoto M - Japan Exp Doctor Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India Teacher in Darjeeling Mountaineering Institute Details Other expeditions
Phinjo Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nawang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR65101 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 40:190 (1966) -
LSHR65101 JAC Yoshikawa, Hisao Lhotse Shar, 1965 - 61:14-15 (1966) -
LSHR65101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Lhotse - 66:38-42 (Mar 1979) -
LSHR65101 JAC Yoshikawa, Hisao Lhotse Shar, 1965 - 61:47-62 (1966) -
LSHR65101 - Murai, Aoi Himalaya in Illusion Toju-sha, Tokyo - jM95
LSHR65101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196619002/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar - - -