Lhotse Shar | 2007 S Face

A S Korea expedition to Lhotse Shar in 2007 via S Face, led by Um Hong-Gil. Summit reached on 31st May 2007. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5738
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LSHR07101
Peak ID LSHR
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Um Hong-Gil
Sponsor 2007 Korea Lhotse Shar & Lhotse South Face Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2007-03-29
Summit Date 2007-05-31
Summit Time 0650
Summit Days 63
Total Days 97
Termination Date 2007-07-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8382
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 4700
Total Members 15
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,5400m),C1(04/04,5900m),C2(30/04,6800m),C3(20/05,7400m),C4(29/05,8000m),Smt(31/05)
Route Notes BC on Lhotse Glacier C1 on South Face (route to right of Japanese) C2 on ridge on South Face C3 on left side of ridge C4 at snowfield left of ridge. Took long time to occupy C2 because many snow avalanches and difficult route and no campsite at lower altitude. From C2 to C3 mixed ice and rock, technically difficult, and 90-degree steepness in some places. Fixed rope: BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 1500m, C2 to C3 800m, C3 to C4 800m, C4 to top 700m (200m taken from below). From C4 to top mixed snow ice and rock; snow and rock slope above col at 8200m on SE Ridge, series of 4-5 false summits and very strong cold wind. On 31 May 3:30 am Byun, Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi left C4, Sherpas carrying and Byun making a route and fixing ropes; Um and Mo left C4 at 5:00 am and caught up with ropes fixed and climbed together. Above 8200m Lhakpa Wangdi returned to C4 on his job carrying rope finished and not interested in top; others reached top at 6:50 pm in full moon. Byun snow blind from taking photos without goggles. Team managed to reach C1 at 5:40 am 1 June and down to BC by Um and Pasang Namgyal; Byun and Mo from C4 to BC 2 June. Climb finished: no attempt on Lhotse's main summit because now cloudy and windy, many snow avalanches daily, no time left. This was Um's fourth attempt to climb Lhotse Shar, his first via South Face. Sherpas: Pasang Namgyal, 25/11/72, Khumjung, Everest X1, Yalung Kang with Um Lhakpa Wangdi, 25/11/77, Chheskam-2, Solu, no 8000ers Oxyygen: Members Mo and Byun in C4 to top to 8200m Um from C4 to top to 8300m Sherpas Pasang Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangdi used none. Accident: Nima Dorchi, 10/9/75 (25/5/2032), Murmidanda-9, Sankhuwasabha (said to have summited Dhaulagiri I in autumn 2000 with Spanish team and Cho Oyu Spring 2002 also with Spaniards), fell 700 meters from 6100m when he was not properly clipped onto the fixed rope. He fell in new soft snow and no bones were broken, but was in pain and was flown by helicopter from Chhukung to Kathmandu on 14 May. Mo and Byun came to Kathmandu by helicopter from Syangboche on 7 June because of their frostbite: Mo's fingers and toes, Byun's toes and nose; areas are blue-black, but it was not immediately clear whether they will lose anything. Um's big toes also frostbitten, but not seriously.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457114
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Young-Rok Bae M 1975 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Salesman Details Other expeditions
Sung-Ho Byun M 1970 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jin-Chul Choi M 1972 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Proprietor of trekking and climbing business Details Other expeditions
Sang-Gyu Han M 1973 S Korea Climber Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Seong-Ha Hong M 1972 S Korea Climber Suwon, Gyeonggi, S Korea Staff of airport cargo clearance business Details Other expeditions
Sung-Taek Hong M 1967 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Language academy proprietor Details Other expeditions
Dong-Young Jung M 1975 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Jewellery business owner Details Other expeditions
Jung-Bae Kim M 1976 S Korea Climber Jeollanam, S Korea Office worker Details Other expeditions
Teak-Gun Lee M 1982 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Student of Korean history Details Other expeditions
Sang-Hyun Mo M 1974 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Promotion manager of mountaineering hardware company Details Other expeditions
Hyeon-Sook Park F 1978 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea IT administrator in finance company Details Other expeditions
Dong-Min Shin M 1974 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Cook Details Other expeditions
Jun-Kyo Song M 1973 S Korea Climber Gyeongsangbuk, S Korea Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Sung-Ho Woo M 1982 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Student Details Other expeditions
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Wangdi Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Chheskam, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LSHR07101 CLIM - - - 44:69-70 (Oct 2008) -