Lobuche East | 2014 E Face (new rte)

A Ukraine expedition to Lobuche East in 2014 via E Face (new rte), led by Yuri Kilichenko. Summit reached on 27th April 2014. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8504
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LOBE14101
Peak ID LOBE
Year 2014
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (new rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Yuri Kilichenko
Sponsor Odessa Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Thyangboche
Basecamp Date 2014-04-21
Summit Date 2014-04-27
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 6
Total Days 7
Termination Date 2014-04-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6119
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Ama Dablam (AMAD-141-03)
Campsites BC(21/04,5150m),Biv1(24-25/04,5570m),Biv2(26/04,5950m),Smt(27/04)
Route Notes At first made 6 pitches then weather turned bad and the 4 came down, waiting 3 days under the wall (snow most of time, fully on the 2 first days, 3rd day waiting for the rock to clear from the snow). On 24 April, first begins on the right in a 75 to 80m mixed ground hidden couloir located behind a tall block detached from the main face; first 50 degrees steep, then 70 degrees in a frozen waterfall, then eventually 50 degrees. The team used 1-1/2 to 2 hours for this part. Then Wall 1 begins, the line following 10m on the left of a water-polished rocky gully. In 4 pitches of 60 meters (the team always used 60m ropes) for a 240m effective climb, the team met with difficulties up to A2/A3 on 100m, 50 percent of free climb in 5b/6a and 10% of 6b. The team fixed further line up to the begining Wall 2 the same day in an easy 30-40 degree pitch climbed straight without protections, searching for a bivy place directly at the footstep of it without success. Then spent 2 nights at their bivy 1, recovering a bit from Wall 1. At this place they could properly install the tent they carried from BC. Up to that point the team noticed an earlier attempt on the same route, believing it to be 10 years old according to the gear (found 3 to 4 old bolts with carabiners on Wall 1, then one roped belay at bivy 1 put around a pinnacle, with more bolts and carabiners for abseiling on it). On 26 April, the team came over the difficulties of Wall 2 in 4 pitches from the main ledge (240m again), meeting with difficulties up to 6b (45 to 50% in 5b/6a, 15% in 6b - a little more than on Wall 1, 30% in 4b/5a). Having finished with Wall 2, the team had a rest time before going on and reaching its bivouac 2 on a small ledge. That evening had the traditional moral emergency sort of red caviar can to cope with hard bivouacs! On 27 April, the team finished with the ending ridge "really simple", max 2b/3a at the buttress, with some snow and ice otherwise - all climbed straight without protections. This ridge couldn't be seen from the footstep of the wall (1h 30 to 2h from the picture summit to the true summit!). All 4 members reached the summit at 1:30 pm in low visibility conditions, with fog and little snow. They went down by the normal route to eventually reach Lobuche village at 8:30 pm. On 28 April, the team came back in 2 hours to their BC to take back their equipment (sandals, ski sticks, etc) and returned to Lobuche. The day after they started for Ama Dablam (see next report). Route eventually named "two arrows flights" because of the impression for its creators that from the footstep of each Wall 1 and 2 they looked up and had to make a route almost completely straight up! Hard climbing on these 2 really separated parts. Further comments about both wall difficulties: Similar difficulties in Wall 2 than wall, but a little shorter. Maybe 2 pieces (15 to 20m in Wall 1 and 10m in Wall 2) were in 7a; difficulty presented itself like a 10m overhanging part, needing 30-minutes tries before putting a bolt. They met no ice at all in Wall 1 and 2, where they could climb 30 to 40% with climbing shoes. Remnant was climbed using boots. The second in rope would use jumar to join belays. About the rock and protections: There were not so many cracks on Wall 1 (granite like) and 2 (less sure about granite, some mixed ground), were like 4 cms minimum up to 8 to 10 cms wide. The rock was almost all time compact, stable with many blocks (from half a meter to bigger size) allowing to chose quite a direct route (otherwise, "without it would have to slalom much more"), even if many of them required a lots of attention in order to not make them fall. Otherwise would need to bolt most of it (bolts "which may be put forever!"). Both wall steepness around 80° and got some lichens. Central part of the face between Wall 1 and 2 brings quite stable rock and belays, not as final ridge where belays were less good in unstable kind of step-shaped layers of loose rock. The team used camelots, anchors, pitons, leaving 5 or 6 bolts fixed for belays on the whole route. About bivy places: There were no possible bivy places in Wall 1 and 2. Bivy 1 was very good and sheltered, it wasn't in fact possible to find a correct one directly at the footstep of Wall 2 (by the way not a safe place with stone fall).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID AMAD14103
Checksum 2459644
Year 2014
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (new rte)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Kilichenko M 1966 Ukraine Leader Odessa, Ukraine IT programmer Details Other expeditions
Maksim Viktorovich Perevalov M 1976 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Sportsman (instructor) Details Other expeditions
Petro Pobebeghnyi M 1978 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Household goods trader Details Other expeditions
Yuri Valerievich Vasenkov M 1975 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LOBE14101 AAJ Kilichenko, Yuri Lobuche East, E Face, Two Arrows Flight - 89:300-301 (2015) -
LOBE14101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212863/Lobuche-East-East-Face-Two-Arrows-Flight - - -