Linkhu Chuli Nup | 2024 NW Ridge (up), W Ridge (down)

A UK expedition to Linkhu Chuli Nup in 2024 via NW Ridge (up), W Ridge (down), led by Connor Holdsworth. Summit reached on 2nd November 2024. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11520
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LIK224301
Peak ID LIK2
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge (up), W Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Connor Holdsworth
Sponsor British Rolwaling Expedition 2024
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2024-10-21
Summit Date 2024-11-02
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 12
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2024-11-06
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at subpeak of LIK2 due to lateness of the day
High Point (m) 6630
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/10,4580m),ABC(22/10,4860m),Biv1(31/10,6120m),Biv2(01/11,6400m),ForeSmt(02/11,6630m),Biv3(02/6200m)
Route Notes The British Rolwaling team of 4 arrived at BC on 22 Oct. After acclimatizing on Parchamo and summiting on 29 Oct, the team returned to BC and discovered that ravens had stolen all of their food in their tent. So the team (facing lost supplies) split up into two groups to try separate peaks. Takargo East: Connor Holdsworth David Sharpe Linku Chuli II: Jack Morris Nathan White Report from Jack Morris: Approach: Rolwaling Trail BC 21/10 4580m (where BC porters and yaks stopped) ABC 22/10 4860m Biv1 31/10 6120-6150m Biv2 01/11 6400m Biv3 02/11 6200m Smt 02/11 by both members at 2:30 pm. Acclimatized on Parchamo on the 29 Oct (with summit). On descent, the team met with a slight disaster: ravens had eaten all their food in the tent! With that loss of food supply, the duet would need to rush for its attempt of its main goal. The latter consisted in attempting the NW Ridge, which splits the N and NW Faces, both of it capped with seracs. 31 Oct: from ABC, the duet reached the NW Ridge at a characteristic snowy dome feature. From there, facing loose unprotectable rock on the ridge itself, the team bypassed it by the right/NW Face (dashed line on the line drawing). In that section was the crux of the climb, consisting in a Scottish 7 (same as M6/M6+?) pitch; 2 or 3 pitches of M5; for the rest sustained M4/M4+ terrain. After 16 hrs of climbing, the duet reached his first bivy. 01 Nov: the day started with a traverse to the NW Face, at circa 6200m. Then the duet got quite high on the following snowy shoulder until 6 pm. Just as the sun was setting and the team had to consider a place for setting its next bivy, the route above them was unexpectedly blocked by a 50m compact vertical rock buttress. With no other option than avoiding it, the duet did a 100m traverse straight to the right (no up, no down). Above that they could cut a suitable place in the snow for a barely acceptable bivouac (wide enough to put the tent), getting into the tent at midnight. The duet had climbed 15 hrs on this second day. 02 Nov: Started at circa 7 am from the second bivouac. The last difficulties on this day were ice (WI3(+)) and easy mixed (1 pitch of Scottish 4). Stopped at the NW top at 2:30 pm. Knowing the very short weather window, the duet didn’t want to commit onto the last ice ridge section to reach the actual summit. Soon after they started the descent via the W Ridge (1960 route), downclimbing and abseiling. After 10:30 hrs of climbing, the third bivouac was reached at circa 6200m, after 3 hrs of descent. The evening and night would prove to be very cold, Morris even putting his mittens on the feet! 03 Nov: the duet kept descending the W Ridge, getting back to its ABC at 6:15 pm. Next day duet reached its BC, the storm was now plenty active, with snow on the moraines. Here the duet would wait two days for porters and yacks to reach tem, then leave the place (on the 6th of November). During the ascent, temperatures were relatively acceptable, dry cold down to minus 8 to 10°C, and it wasn’t too windy. Just when cresting the summit ridge, the duet got a cold breeze coming from SW, then the last bivouac on the W Ridge would be very cold. First time in the Himalaya for both members, discovering a new style of climbing, the HD recording among other things. Left BC on 6th of November. Oxygen: Not taken, not used Records: 1st ascent of the NW Ridge. Other peaks: Parchamo during acclimatization.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID TKRE24301
Checksum 2465926
Year 2024
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge (up), w ridge (down)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Connor Joseph Holdsworth M 1991 UK Leader Bradford, W Yorkshire, England - Details Other expeditions
Jack Morris M 1994 UK Climber Carshalton, London, England - Details Other expeditions
David James Sharpe M 1984 UK Climber Kendal, Cumbria, England - Details Other expeditions
Nathan Ross White M 1987 UK Climber Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.