Linkhu Chuli Shar | 2013 N Face

A Germany expedition to Linkhu Chuli Shar in 2013 via N Face, led by Ines Papert. Summit reached on 13th November 2013. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8332
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LIK113301
Peak ID LIK1
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Ines Papert
Sponsor German Tengkangpoche & Linku Chuli I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Thami->Tengpo
Basecamp Date 2013-11-02
Summit Date 2013-11-13
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 11
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2013-11-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6719
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/11,4300m),ABC(07/11,4850m),C1(10/11,6580m),C2(11/11,6620m),C3(12/11,6580m),Smt(13/11)
Route Notes BC 02 Nov at 4300m at Tengpo, Parchamo View Lodge ABC 07 Nov at Omizo Lake at the bottom of the face C1 10 Nov just below the top of the face C2 11 Nov 6620m C3 12 Nov 6580m Smt 13 Nov 6719m by Papert at 2 pm. Papert and Senf left ABC at 4 am on 10 Nov. The first third was relatively fast as they did not use a rope for this section of the route, which led up underneath the cornice. They reached the cornice, which was just below the exit of the face, at about 3 pm. After they had tried for about four hours to get over, but were not able to due to the overhang and the sugary snow, they set up a bivouac and stayed the night. The next morning they found a better way to get off the face. It was further to the right where the sun had consolidated the snow a bit better than in the middle of the face. They were both very exhausted after the tough climb of the previous day and the night on the hanging bivouac, which was "hell" (according to the Papert). As they had enough provisions and a tent (as opposed to just a bivy bag) they decided to take it more slowly on the ridge and established their second camp at only 40m higher than the first camp. "We were already in the tent at about 11 am due to the extreme cold, the wind and the exhaustion," Papert said. On 12 Nov, Papert and Senf moved across the top slowly and established their third bivoauc at 6580m. They were already in the tent at lunch time as it was freezing cold. As Senf had very cold fingers and toes and could see the beginning of frostbite, he decided not to attempt for the summit, but convinced Papert to go on her own. At that point they had already negotiated the most difficult part of the route and Papert felt comfortable to continue on her own. Papert left C3 at 12:30 am in cold, but clear weather. The summit flank was about 50 to 70 degrees. Papert had to cross a bergschrund; however, it was possible to get over it without any protection. Straightforward climb to the summit. Papert spent about 10 minutes on the top and descended back to C3, where she arrived at 3 pm. Senf was still at C3, where the team spent another night. On 14 Nov Papert and Senf roped up and descended via the West Shoulder. At the lowest point of the shoulder, they abseiled through a gully leading to a glacier. They crossed the glacier on its northern edge until their path eventually joined their appraoch route. They went back to the Parchamo View Lodge in Tengpo, where they stayed for another two days in order to look after Senf's slightly frostbitten toes and Papert's slightly frostbitten fingers. On 17 Nov they left BC by helicopter and went straight back to Kathmandu. Senf reached C3 on 12 Nov and decided to abandon climb due to cold toes. For the ascent and descent the team used the following gear: 1.70m half rope; 2 snow stakes; 3 ice screws; 1 set of pitons; 1 set of nuts; 3 quickdraws; 4 slings a 60 cm; 4 slings a 120 cm; 2 peckers; 2 ice tools each; crampons; 1 tent, a sleeping bag each; 2 gas cylinders and stove, bit of food, 5 screw carabiners; 8 carabiner.
Accidents 1st to 2nd degree frostbite on some fingers by Papert and toes by Senf
Achievement -
Agency Adventure Thamserku
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459478
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ines Papert F 1974 Germany Leader Bayerisch Gmain, Bavaria, Germany Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Thomas Senf M 1981 Germany Climber Interlaken, Bern, Switzerland Photographer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LIK113301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 88:314-315 (2014) -
LIK113301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212648/Likhu-Chuli-I-6719m-north-northeast-face-of-Pt-6660m-north-flank-and-north-ridge - - -