Lhotse | 1997 W Face

A Kazakhstan expedition to Lhotse in 1997 via W Face, led by Anatoli Boukreev. Summit reached on 26th May 1997. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2243
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT97105
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Anatoli Boukreev
Sponsor Independent party for Lhotse-Everest traverse
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 39th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-05-18
Summit Date 1997-05-26
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 8
Total Days 10
Termination Date 1997-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/05,5350m),C2(22/05,6400m),C3(24/05,7350m),Smt(26/05)
Route Notes C2 in West Cwm C3 on West Face. On 22 May Boukreev started up from BC with Moro and slept nights of 22nd and 23rd in C2; 24th to C3; 25th waited because some snowfall. 26th weather better; started up at 11:45 pm of 25th and Moro on top at 1:30 pm Boukreev joined him at top at 2:00 pm. Now clouds were forming and weather becoming unsettled in afternoon and Boukreev probably had infection in lungs; not in good health. Were equipped for traverse but Boukreev decided too risky for him to do it and Moro not interested in traversing solo. So boredom to C3 that night and BC on 27th. Moro had been climbing with Italian Lhotse expedition, before Boukreev arrived at BC from KTM after Everest ascent in April with Indonesians. Their plan had been to go to Lhotse summit via normal West Face route, traverse by shortest possible route to South Col, summit Everest and descend Everest via North Ridge if possible; would decide descent route via North or South when atop Everest. Moro on Italian (Da Polenza) Lhotse permit and Henry Todd's Everest permit. Boukreev on Russian Lhotse, Todd's Everest South and Kazakh's Everest permit.
Accidents Nothing except Boukreev unknown infection
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453402
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpine instructor & guide Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Colere, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT97105 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:309-310 (1998) -
LHOT97105 HIGH - - - 179:26-27 (Oct 1997) -
LHOT97105 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830900/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Group-Attempted-Traverse - - -