Lhotse | 1997 W Face

A UK expedition to Lhotse in 1997 via W Face, led by Andy Clarke. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2241
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	UK
Leaders	Andy Clarke
Sponsor	Ascent Lhotse Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	34th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	Finland, Mexico
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1997-04-07
Summit Date	1997-05-23
Summit Time	1455
Summit Days	46
Total Days	53
Termination Date	1997-05-30
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8516
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	8
Summit Members	1
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Attempted Makalu (MAKA-971-03) (only Hinkes joined other expedition)
Campsites	BC(07/04,5350m),C1(14/04,6000m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(30/04,7300m),C4(22/05,7850m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes	C1 at tip of Icefall C2 in West ernCwm C4 next to Henry Todd's team. This first time Clarke climbed in Himalaya so when Duff died suddenly, Clarke had to take over without leadership experience in Himalayas but sirdar was good. C4 only small platform space so shared tent with Todd's team and had to coordinate usage of it. Hinkes, who used this team's tents, oxygen, food and Sherpas (used oxygen from C3) and summited from C4 without staying at C4 on 23rd fixed only couple of ropes (of this team) while most ropes in couloir fixed by Russians though Hinkes will claim that he did it all. 24th McDermott tried to make fast ascent from C2 without oxygen. Left C2 at 8:30 pm, reached C4 at 5:00 am, moved up again after drinking there and got to 8300m at 2:30 pm; turned back since was alone (had been climbing with Yates of Todd's team part of way from C4) and it was too late to continue up alone and without oxygen; slept 24th night at C3. Wright wanted to make summit bid but on 26th snow started and McDermott with getting weak they turned back at bottom yellow band together. Loredo early hours of 27th tried to summit from C3, reached C4 at 7:00 am, toes getting cold but climbed on high as 8000m before too cold and turned back; climbed without oxygen. Sherpa Wangchu/Ongchu, young man claiming 8000m experience/results that were not true, was heard wailing in his tent at night and seen limping at BC, claiming frostbite in toes, but he had none.
Accidents	Clarke stomach trouble; Wangchu claimed frostnip
Achievement	-
Agency	Arun Treks
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2453399
Year	1997
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	w face

Members

Field	Value
ID	16638
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	01
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Andy
Last Name	Clarke
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1963
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	UK
Status	Leader
Residence	Fort William, Inverness, Scotland
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	10
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Stomach trouble
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	9
HCN	0
Checksum	2436185
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	andy clarke
Year of Birth	1963
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	16639
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	03
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Gary John
Last Name	Guller
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1966
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Cromer, Norfolk, England
Occupation	Oil supply director
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	True
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Missing one arm
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2437333
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gary john guller
Year of Birth	1966
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16640
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	04
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Alan Charles
Last Name	Hinkes
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1954
Calculated Age	43
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Washington, Tyne & Wear, England
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1997-05-23
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1455
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	34
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	From C3
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2432763
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alan charles hinkes
Year of Birth	1954
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	43
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16641
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	05
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Ivan
Last Name	Loredo Vidal
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1967
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Mexico
Status	Climber
Residence	Mexico City, Mexico
Occupation	Financial manager & climber
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8000
Summit Date 1	1997-05-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	8
HCN	0
Checksum	2437724
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ivan loredo vidal
Year of Birth	1967
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16642
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	06
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Mark Charles
Last Name	McDermott
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1959
Calculated Age	38
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Hutton, Preston, England
Occupation	Computer programmer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8300
Summit Date 1	1997-05-24
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	7
HCN	0
Checksum	2434568
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mark charles mcdermott
Year of Birth	1959
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	38
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16643
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	07
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Ari
Last Name	Piela
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1963
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Finland
Status	Climber
Residence	Lahti, Finland
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2436215
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ari piela
Year of Birth	1963
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16644
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	02
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Michael J. (Mike)
Last Name	Trueman
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	44
Citizenship	UK
Status	Deputy Leader
Residence	Midhurst, W Surrey, England
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	True
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2432105
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michael j. (mike) trueman
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	45
Role	Deputy

Field	Value
ID	16645
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Member ID	08
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1997
Season	1
First Name	Alison
Last Name	Wright
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1965
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Hutton, Preston, England
Occupation	Civil engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7500
Summit Date 1	1997-05-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	14
HCN	0
Checksum	2436964
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alison wright
Year of Birth	1965
Year	1997
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

8 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Andy Clarke	M	1963	UK	Leader	Fort William, Inverness, Scotland	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Gary John Guller	M	1966	UK	Climber	Cromer, Norfolk, England	Oil supply director	Details Other expeditions
Alan Charles Hinkes	M	1954	UK	Climber	Washington, Tyne & Wear, England	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Ivan Loredo Vidal	M	1967	Mexico	Climber	Mexico City, Mexico	Financial manager & climber	Details Other expeditions
Mark Charles McDermott	M	1959	UK	Climber	Hutton, Preston, England	Computer programmer	Details Other expeditions
Ari Piela	M	1963	Finland	Climber	Lahti, Finland	-	Details Other expeditions
Michael J. (Mike) Trueman	M	1952	UK	Deputy Leader	Midhurst, W Surrey, England	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Alison Wright	F	1965	UK	Climber	Hutton, Preston, England	Civil engineer	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	3217
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Reference ID	01
Year	1997
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1998
Language	-
Citation	72:308-309 (1998)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	5102
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Reference ID	02
Year	1997
Type	3
Journal	HIGH
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1997
Language	-
Citation	179:27 (Oct 1997)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	10866
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT97102
Reference ID	03
Year	1997
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830800/Asia-Nepal-Various-Activity-in-the-Pre-Monsoon
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
LHOT97102	AAJ	Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	72:308-309 (1998)	-
LHOT97102	HIGH	-	-	-	179:27 (Oct 1997)	-
LHOT97102	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830800/Asia-Nepal-Various-Activity-in-the-Pre-Monsoon	-	-	-