Lhotse | 1997 W Face

A UK expedition to Lhotse in 1997 via W Face, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2272
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT97101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Audio Everest Expedition 97
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 35th,38th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada, Denmark, Italy, Latvia, Norway, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-05
Summit Date 1997-05-23
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 48
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Everest (EVER-971-09)
Campsites BC(05/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(23,26/05)
Route Notes C3 on West Face C4 on West Face. C4 left by Yates and Jorgenson for summit on 22nd night but Yates got sick from over-eating and back to C4 while Jorgenson continued up with 3 Russians (Russians using oxygen, Jorgenson not), fixing rope as they climbed, 200m below summit, Hinkes caught up with them using new long bottle of oxygen and helped fix rope. Hinkes and Jorjenson reached summit together at about 3:00 pm. Jorgenson slept C4. Yates tried to summit on 24th but after 4 hours climbing turned back at about 8200m because of dehydration and weakness from sickness. 2 Boskoffs went from C4; Keith not feeling well so turned back while Christine carried on and passed Russians on way to top; both slept in C4. Peta Watts was at South Col with Evreest summiters (so was Todd but had no intention of trying for its summit, but intended to summit Lhotse from Col after return of summit team) but Contreras came back with frostbite and as leader, Todd obliged to help him. Watts left Col what ten minutes after summit party, turned back after an hour with pains in chest; Pemba Dorje and Ang Tshering up with her and down with her; she slept on Col that night and strong next day and helped bring down Contreras.
Accidents Yates upset stomach
Achievement 1st Dane on summit
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID EVER97109
Checksum 2453399
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andris Blanks M 1940 Latvia Climber Riga, Latvia Building engineer Details Other expeditions
Christine Joyce Feld Boskoff F 1967 USA Climber Atlanta, Georgia Travel agent & electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Keith L. Boskoff M 1950 USA Climber Atlanta, Georgia Travel agency owner & architect Details Other expeditions
Ingjerd Karlsen F 1967 Norway Climber Leopsmark, Norway Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Torgeir Kjus M 1965 Norway Climber Loepsmark, Norway Sports officer Details Other expeditions
Karl Konrad Nagy M 1963 Canada Climber Canmore, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Simon Andrew Yates M 1963 UK Climber Penrith, Cumbria, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen M 1967 Denmark Climber Copenhagen, Denmark Mountain photographer & armyman Details Other expeditions
Brigitte Muir F 1958 Australia Climber Natimuk, Victoria, Australia Tour operator Details Other expeditions
Reinhard Patscheider M 1957 Italy Climber Graun, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT97101 AAJ - - - 72:310 (1998) -
LHOT97101 HIGH - - - 179:27 (Oct 1997) -
LHOT97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831001/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-First-American-Female-Ascent - - -