Lhotse | 1997 W Face
A UK expedition to Lhotse in 1997 via W Face, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 23rd May 1997. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2272 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT97101 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Henry Todd |
| Sponsor | Audio Everest Expedition 97 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 35th,38th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Canada, Denmark, Italy, Latvia, Norway, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 1997-05-23 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 48 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Everest (EVER-971-09) |
| Campsites | BC(05/04,5350m),C1(07/04,6000m),C2(13/04,6400m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(26/05,7900m),Smt(23,26/05) |
| Route Notes | C3 on West Face C4 on West Face. C4 left by Yates and Jorgenson for summit on 22nd night but Yates got sick from over-eating and back to C4 while Jorgenson continued up with 3 Russians (Russians using oxygen, Jorgenson not), fixing rope as they climbed, 200m below summit, Hinkes caught up with them using new long bottle of oxygen and helped fix rope. Hinkes and Jorjenson reached summit together at about 3:00 pm. Jorgenson slept C4. Yates tried to summit on 24th but after 4 hours climbing turned back at about 8200m because of dehydration and weakness from sickness. 2 Boskoffs went from C4; Keith not feeling well so turned back while Christine carried on and passed Russians on way to top; both slept in C4. Peta Watts was at South Col with Evreest summiters (so was Todd but had no intention of trying for its summit, but intended to summit Lhotse from Col after return of summit team) but Contreras came back with frostbite and as leader, Todd obliged to help him. Watts left Col what ten minutes after summit party, turned back after an hour with pains in chest; Pemba Dorje and Ang Tshering up with her and down with her; she slept on Col that night and strong next day and helped bring down Contreras. |
| Accidents | Yates upset stomach |
| Achievement | 1st Dane on summit |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | EVER97109 |
| Checksum | 2453399 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andris Blanks | M | 1940 | Latvia | Climber | Riga, Latvia | Building engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Christine Joyce Feld Boskoff | F | 1967 | USA | Climber | Atlanta, Georgia | Travel agent & electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Keith L. Boskoff | M | 1950 | USA | Climber | Atlanta, Georgia | Travel agency owner & architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Ingjerd Karlsen | F | 1967 | Norway | Climber | Leopsmark, Norway | Physiotherapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Torgeir Kjus | M | 1965 | Norway | Climber | Loepsmark, Norway | Sports officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Karl Konrad Nagy | M | 1963 | Canada | Climber | Canmore, Alberta | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Henry Barclay Todd | M | 1945 | UK | Leader | Edinburgh, Scotland | Expedition organizer & leader | Details Other expeditions |
| Simon Andrew Yates | M | 1963 | UK | Climber | Penrith, Cumbria, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen | M | 1967 | Denmark | Climber | Copenhagen, Denmark | Mountain photographer & armyman | Details Other expeditions |
| Brigitte Muir | F | 1958 | Australia | Climber | Natimuk, Victoria, Australia | Tour operator | Details Other expeditions |
| Reinhard Patscheider | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Graun, Bolzano, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LHOT97101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 72:310 (1998) | - |
| LHOT97101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:27 (Oct 1997) | - |
| LHOT97101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831001/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-First-American-Female-Ascent | - | - | - |