Lhotse | 1996 W Face

A UK expedition to Lhotse in 1996 via W Face, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 17th May 1996. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1747
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT96101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Everest Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 35th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Denmark, Kazakhstan, New Zealand
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-09
Summit Date 1996-05-17
Summit Time 1746
Summit Days 38
Total Days 44
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Everest (EVER-961-16)
Campsites BC(09/04),C2(6400m),C3(7300m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes Jorgensen and Boukreev were only members who actually went for Lhotse summit. Went from Everest C3 (at 7300m). Jorgensen left C3 at 6:00 am of 17th climbed into couloir and at top of couloir, 50 vertical meters from top, turned back at 5:40 pm because was cold, strong wind and no fixed rope in place and wanted to go down in day light; down to sleep in C3 at 9:00 pm about 2 hours before Boukreev arrived. Boukreev: although he was very tired from Everest crisis of 10th-11th May and work as guide, he decided to try to summit Lhotse. Left BC at 8:30 pm on 16th May, took an hours rest in C2 drinking tea, left C2 12:30 am on 17th, arrived at C3 at 4:30 am, rested, left C3 at 8:00 am, climbed up couloir where there were many old ropes; wind started up while he was in couloir; reached 5-10 meters below summit at 5:46 pm on 17th; stopped just below highest point because could not stand up safely against wind. Slept in C3. Duff - 30 May 1996 Horrex and Jones were the only members of his expedition (who were on Henry Todd's Lhotse permit) who made for Lhotse, but they got no higher than C3 on West Face around 21-23 April, developed bronchial chest infection and went down to BC. They started up again on 6th May, reached C3 on 8th, spent 2 nights there, got same infection and went down again. No Sherpas climbed with them, but 2 Sherpas pitched their C3 tents in mid-April (Sherpas did not sleep there). Trueman and Duff did not attempt to reach C3 on Lhotse Face.
Accidents None
Achievement Fast ascent by Boukreev
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453027
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael Knakkergaard-Jorgensen M 1967 Denmark Climber Copenhagen, Denmark Soldier Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Expedition organizer Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
David Alexander Horrex M 1962 UK Climber Norwich, Norfolk, England Photo lab manager Details Other expeditions
Clive Bruce Jones M 1964 New Zealand Climber Palmerston North, New Zealand Computer programmer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT96101 AAJ Wylie, Linda - - 71:303 (1997) -
LHOT96101 HIGH - - - 167:68 (Oct 1996) -
LHOT96101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199730302/Asia-Nepal-Nepal-and-Tibet-Himalaya-Various-Ascents - - -