Lhotse | 1995 W Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse in 1995 via W Face, led by Felix Inurrategi. Summit reached on 27th September 1995. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1545
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Spain
Leaders	Felix Inurrategi
Sponsor	Lhotse 1995 Basque Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	32nd,33rd
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	S Korea
Approach	Via Gokyo & Cho Oyu for 3 mbrs->direct normal trail for other
Basecamp Date	1995-09-19
Summit Date	1995-09-27
Summit Time	1200
Summit Days	8
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8516
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	0
Fixed Rope (m)	600
Total Members	6
Summit Members	5
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	1
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Cho Oyu illegally (CHOY-953-13)
Campsites	TeamA(19/09,5350m),Biv1(24/09,6400m),Biv2(26/09,7600m),Smt(27/09); TeamB(20/09,5350m),Biv1(30/09,6400m),Biv2(01/10,7600m),Smt(02/10)
Route Notes	BC at bottom of Icefall Biv in Cwm Biv on West Face. Really 2 teams: Team A: Alberto, Felix, Fernando & Onchu Team B: Juanito, Um, Juan & Kazi. Team (A) to C2 directly from BC 24th Sept; 26th to 200m above normal C3 of Everest at 7600m on Lhotse W Face without fixed rope. 27th to summit, arrived at 12:00 after 9 hrs climbing & slept in camp in Cwm (6400m); BC on 28th (Fernando to Cwm only & back to BC). 26th Team (B) fixed 600m on face & down to BC. (B) left BC on 30th Sept to C2, 1st Oct to (A)'s camp at 7600m & 2nd to summit (Um & Kazi not to top: Um frostbite problem, Kazi not so strong). 8 Oct - Kazi only to between Cwm Camp & face & down because not so strong & no space on face for 4 men in tent. 2nd Oct 3 members started up together but Um stopped briefly because toes getting cold; waited half-hour in sun, then up alone to top half - 3/4 hrs after 2 Spanish members. Inurrategi team on Cho Oyu had no problem about crossing border illegally at Nangpa La to climb without permit. Xavier Egueskitza - 6 May 96 Basques say Um did not reach Lhotse summit - he was too tired. Claimed he summited because of fear of losing his sponsorship if he failed. Um - 23 Dec 96 Um denies stoutly that he failed to reach summit. Inaki Ochoa - 28 Mar 2007 Um Hong-Gil, Juan Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal were on the same rope together on Lhotse when approaching the summit. But Um turned back at about 8300m disconnecting himself from the rope, thus not summiting.
Accidents	Um frostbite starting but not serious
Achievement	1st Spanish to top
Agency	In Wilderness (Kunga)
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2452793
Year	1995
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	w face

Members

Field	Value
ID	16596
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	02
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Alberto
Last Name	Inurrategi Iriarte
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1968
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Spain
Status	Climber
Residence	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain
Occupation	Student of auto mechanics
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1200
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	32
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2438090
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alberto inurrategi iriarte
Year of Birth	1968
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16597
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	01
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Felix
Last Name	Inurrategi Iriarte
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1967
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Spain
Status	Leader
Residence	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain
Occupation	Student of agricultural engineering
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1200
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	32
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2437509
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	felix inurrategi iriarte
Year of Birth	1967
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	16598
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	03
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Juan Eusebio (Juanito)
Last Name	Oiarzabal Urteaga
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Spain
Status	Climber
Residence	Vitoria, Alava, Spain
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-10-02
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	33
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433501
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	juan eusebio (juanito) oiarzabal urteaga
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16599
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	04
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Hong-Gil
Last Name	Um
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	35
Citizenship	S Korea
Status	Climber
Residence	Gyeonggi-do, S Korea
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	True
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-10-02
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	33
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Ascent disputed by Basques
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2435126
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hong-gil um
Year of Birth	1960
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	35
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16600
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	05
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Fernando
Last Name	Uribesalgo
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	35
Citizenship	Spain
Status	Climber
Residence	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain
Occupation	Mechanic
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2434970
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	fernando uribesalgo
Year of Birth	1960
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	35
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16601
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	06
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Juan
Last Name	Vallejo Llanos
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1970
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Spain
Status	Climber
Residence	Vitoria, Alava, Spain
Occupation	Firefighter
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-10-02
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	33
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2438599
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	juan vallejo llanos
Year of Birth	1970
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16602
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Member ID	07
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1995
Season	3
First Name	Ongchu
Last Name	Lama
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phaplu, Solukhumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1995-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1200
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	32
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	-106
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ongchu lama
Year of Birth	-
Year	1995
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

7 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Alberto Inurrategi Iriarte	M	1968	Spain	Climber	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain	Student of auto mechanics	Details Other expeditions
Felix Inurrategi Iriarte	M	1967	Spain	Leader	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain	Student of agricultural engineering	Details Other expeditions
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga	M	1956	Spain	Climber	Vitoria, Alava, Spain	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um	M	1960	S Korea	Climber	Gyeonggi-do, S Korea	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Fernando Uribesalgo	M	1960	Spain	Climber	Aretxabaleta, Guipuzcoa, Spain	Mechanic	Details Other expeditions
Juan Vallejo Llanos	M	1970	Spain	Climber	Vitoria, Alava, Spain	Firefighter	Details Other expeditions
Ongchu Lama	M	-	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phaplu, Solukhumbu	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	3042
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Reference ID	01
Year	1995
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1996
Language	-
Citation	70:273 (1996)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4906
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Reference ID	02
Year	1995
Type	3
Journal	HIGH
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1996
Language	-
Citation	161:30-31 (Apr 1996)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4947
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Reference ID	03
Year	1995
Type	3
Journal	HIGH
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1996
Language	-
Citation	163:31 (Jun 1996)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6086
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Reference ID	04
Year	1995
Type	3
Journal	HIGH
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1996
Language	-
Citation	161:33-34 (Apr 1996)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	10976
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT95302
Reference ID	05
Year	1995
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627304/Asia-Nepal-Lohtse
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
LHOT95302	AAJ	Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	70:273 (1996)	-
LHOT95302	HIGH	-	-	-	161:30-31 (Apr 1996)	-
LHOT95302	HIGH	-	-	-	163:31 (Jun 1996)	-
LHOT95302	HIGH	-	-	-	161:33-34 (Apr 1996)	-
LHOT95302	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627304/Asia-Nepal-Lohtse	-	-	-