Lhotse | 1994 W Face

A Italy expedition to Lhotse in 1994 via W Face, led by Agostino Da Polenza. Summit reached on 11th October 1994. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1387
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT94303
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Agostino Da Polenza
Sponsor Ronast Ev-K-2-CNR Lhotse S Col Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 29th disputed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-22
Summit Date 1994-10-11
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 19
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 3
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,5350m),C1(26/09,6000m),C2(05/10,6400m),C3(7100m),xxx(11/10,8400m)
Route Notes Only 2 members & 1 Sherpa were engaged in attempting to reach Lhotse summit: all others involved only in research effort. Moro & Mondinelli made summit push from C2 which they left at 10:00 pm on the 10th of Oct. On their way up they found Pawlowski in small tent at 7600m; they joined him in tent & than all 3 left his tent at 6 am & reached top at 12 noon. Chamoux on top 3 hours later. None of Lhotse S Col team climbed to Col. 6500m was maximum altitude reached by any of them except Lhotse climbers Moro, Mondinelli & 1 Sherpa who turned back. 10 May 95 - Pawlowski says that he and the two Italians climbed fairly close together to rock in couloir about 100-150m below summit. Italians said route above difficult and there was strong wind, so they descended. Pawlowski paused for five minutes, then decided to see how high he could reach, found couloir not so difficult and went to summit. Moro's tale of being on summit waiting to photograph others coming up to him is not correct. 28 March 95 - Chamoux says he does not know how high Italians reached but it was not the summit. 22 May 95 - Marco Bianchi (Everest North) says team was under enormous pressure to summit Lhotse since it was financed by CNR (Italian research organization) and its program of high altitude research did not take place.
Accidents Moro frostnipped finger, toes & nose
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452441
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Agostino Da Polenza M 1953 Italy Leader Albino, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergio Gabbio M 1956 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Gallo M 1952 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Border policeman & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Colere, Bergamo, Italy Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Antonio Prestini M 1964 Italy Climber Velate, Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Michele Samaja M 1951 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Research physician Details Other expeditions
Giampietro Verza M 1956 Italy Climber Sesto San Giovanni, Milano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT94303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:234 (1995) -
LHOT94303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523401/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -