Lhotse | 1994 W Face

A Switzerland expedition to Lhotse in 1994 via W Face, led by Erhard Loretan. Summit reached on 1st October 1994. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1392
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT94301
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Erhard Loretan
Sponsor Swiss Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 28th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-08-26
Summit Date 1994-10-01
Summit Time 0910
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08,5300m),Biv1(29/09,6400m),Biv2(30/09,8200m),Smt(01/10)
Route Notes Biv in West Cwm. After arrived at BC climbed small peak SW of Nuptse, then to Dingboche. Snow not good: too warm. Then went into Cwm 17th Sept to make deposit. 22 Sept climbed Khumbutse shoulder. 23 Sept to 8000m on Lhotse to make deposit (just above yellow band) and back to BC at 9 pm 24th Sept. Rested. 29th Sept 5 pm started summit push; reached C2 of French 8:30 pm, rested in French tent, 30th Sept 4 am climbed to 8000m deposit at 2 pm; took supplies to snow cave to wait for daylight; 6 am 2 Swiss & McNab up again & 8 am, 100m below summit, McNab turned back (McNab had spent 2 nights at 8000m before Swiss came up & joined him). 9:10 am Loretan & Troillet reached Lhotse summit; was very cold and windy. Because of snow and wind, did not take equipment for a traverse. Spring is better for traverse when snow is harder, but ascent of Lhotse more difficult because of hard ice on face. Is possible to make traverse; there is a route. Should take 2 Sherpas to Lhotse to carry equipment there. From Dingboche saw there are good South Face exit routes "if necessary maybe better 3 members and 2 Sherpas: for 3 members same equipment as for 2." "It's one of the most [difficult] traverses you can do now." Loretan would like to do it, but Troillet now more interested in sailing so Loretan will have to find other teammates.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452431
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rudolf (Ruedi) Homberger M 1940 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Erhard Loretan M 1959 Switzerland Leader Cresuz, Fribourg, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mireille Magnin F 1967 Switzerland Climber Bulle, Fribourg, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Sylvie Magnin F 1968 Switzerland Climber Bulle, Fribourg, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Climber Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT94301 AAJ Loretan, Erhard - - 69:234 (1995) -
LHOT94301 HIGH - - - 151:13 (Jun 1995) -
LHOT94301 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 Rugissants Editions La Sarine,Fribourg, Switzerland - -
LHOT94301 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen Verfallen Paulusverlag, Freiburg, Switzerland - -
LHOT94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523401/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -