Lhotse | 1994 W Face

A Sweden expedition to Lhotse in 1994 via W Face, led by Oskar Kihlborg. Summit reached on 9th May 1994. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1326
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT94101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Sweden
Leaders Oskar Kihlborg
Sponsor Swedish Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th-27th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mexico, New Zealand, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-04-12
Summit Date 1994-05-09
Summit Time 1730
Summit Days 27
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 150
Total Members 7
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Everest (EVER-941-04)
Campsites BC(12/04),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6500m),C3(22/04,7200m),C4(08/05,7900m),Smt(09,13,16/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on West Face C4 between yellow band and bottom of Couloir. Swedes went to summit on 9th May in the couloir on hard packed snow. Summited at 5:30 pm with returns to C4 11:30 pm & 3 am in very strong wind going upward in couloir during descent; had forgotton to take headlamps from C4 & was only starlight & had to feel their way down. Fixed 100m above yellow band where Everest fixed roped veered off to the left to C4 & 50m in couloir. Carsolio arrived BC 6th May. Attempted summit on 8th May from BC & reached base of Lhotse face (c6700m) & turned back because did not know the way in the dark & too many crevasses; wanted to do expedition climb; returned to BC; continuous ascent with 2 hour rest in C2 & 1 hr in C4 & on up to top at 12:25. Had wanted to make ascent in 21 hours, but last big chang party in BC before started & lost much time with diarrhea. Spoke with wife by radio from summit. Made top in just under 24 hrs in rush at end to make top in less than 24 hrs. No frostbite & accident. Could see W Cwm from top of Lhotse: made special point of noting this. Hall - 24 May 94 Hall and Viesturs went down to BC after Everest ascent and then started up on 14th to C2, 15th to C4 of Lhotse (tent left there by Sweden) 16th 3:30 am left C4 and on top at 9:30 am (not actually on top because impossible to stand there) down to C4 at 11:30 am and C2 at 3:30 pm, slept there "moderately exhausted." Hall led all the way up on hard snow but two men were together all the way despite fact Hall on oxygen and Viesturs none. Cold but very little wind. No Sherpas specifically for Lhotse. None carried to C4, but Sherpas with Hall's Everests expedition did leave some supplies at a cache which Hall carried up to C4 and of course had helped with C1, C2 and C3. Swede's and Carsolio's color transparencies taken from summit (which I saw) show a section of W Cwm is visable from top of Lhotse.
Accidents Reuterward frostnipped fingers, nose & cheek
Achievement W Face (normal route): 1st Sweden/Scandinavian; 1st Mexican/Latin American
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452286
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Randy Todd Burleson M 1960 USA Climber Woodinville, Washington Alpine guide & businessman Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Outdoor activities instructor Details Other expeditions
Robert Edwin (Rob) Hall M 1961 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand DIrector of expedition organizing company & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Keith Graham Kerr M 1952 UK Climber Hong Kong Business executive Details Other expeditions
Oskar Bertil Kihlborg M 1964 Sweden Leader Stockholm, Sweden Alpinist & photographer Details Other expeditions
Mikael Reutersward M 1964 Sweden Climber Stockholm, Sweden Alpinist & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT94101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:233 (1995) -
LHOT94101 AAJ Viesturs, Ed - - 69:233-234 (1995) -
LHOT94101 HIGH - - - 144:40 (Nov 1994) -
LHOT94101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523301/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse - - -
LHOT94101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523302/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse - - -