Lhotse | 1991 W Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse in 1991 via W Face, led by Juan Fernando Azcona. Summit reached on 4th October 1991. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2923
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT91302
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juan Fernando Azcona
Sponsor Gipuzkopako Lhotse-Pumori Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-08-27
Summit Date 1991-10-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1991-10-07
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7650m due to members feeling ill
High Point (m) 7650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pumori (PUMO-913-09)
Campsites BC(27/08),C1(02/09,6000m),C2(06/09,6500m),C3(23/09,7300m),xxx(04/10,7650m)
Route Notes Arrieta, Azcona, Lasarte and Ulazia intended to scale Lhotse and arrived at that BC 27th Aug, established C1 2 Sept at 6000m; C2 6th Sept at 6500m by 4 members. 15th Sept down to BC and 16th Sept to Pumori directly to C1 (French reported 15th good conditions on Pumori despite accident later in the day). Goni and Zulaika arrived Lhotse BC 4th Sept, but Zulaika got sick and both down to Pheriche. They returned to BC 17th for Pumori and tried for its summit 24th Sept and reached 100m from top, snow very deep, they were tired, moving slowly, cold in clouds. Meanwhile successful Pumori men returned to Lhotse BC 20th Sept and made C3 23rd Sept at 7300m and down to BC because of wind. Try for summit: left BC 28th Sept and 30th Sept up to C3 but too much wind to move up from C3 on 1st Oct as planned so down to C2. 3rd Oct again to C3 and 4th reached yellow band at 7650m: now only Arrieta and Azcona and Azcona now feeling unwell (no food) and climb finished for all except Arrieta who stayed at BC with Spanish Everest. Tried for summit on 10th Oct but did not get above C2 because of wind and he too gave up. 5 members left BC 7th Oct.
Accidents Zulaika cerebral edema; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451335
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Fernando (Juanfer) Azcona Arregui M 1963 Spain Leader San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Salesman, mountaineering equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Juan Carlos Arrieta Llopis M 1963 Spain Climber Errenteria, Guipuzcoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alfredo Goni Tirapu M 1961 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Worker, post office Details Other expeditions
Juan Lasarte Ormaetxea M 1963 Spain Climber Errenteria, Guipuzcoa, Spain Science & math teacher Details Other expeditions
Josu Ulazia Arrizabalaga M 1964 Spain Climber San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Bittor Zulaika M 1961 Spain Climber Deba, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT91302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:199 (1992) -
LHOT91302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199219902/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Attempt - - -