Lhotse | 1989 S Face

A France expedition to Lhotse in 1989 via S Face, led by Marc Batard. Summit reached on 29th November 1989. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 402
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT89401
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1989
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Marc Batard
Sponsor Marc Batard Lhotse S Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-11-25
Summit Date 1989-11-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 4
Total Days 6
Termination Date 1989-12-01
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to direct route too dangerous
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/11,4760m),C1(28/11,6000m),xxx(29/11,7000m)
Route Notes BC at Chhukung C1 on S Face of Lhotse/Lhotse Shar (Polish autumn 1989 C2) High point on South Face. Batard went immediately to acclimatize on Lhotse S Face because Polish autumn expedition's ropes went there and in perfect condition. Tents were still there at C2 (C3 and C4 tents were collapsed and unusable). Started up face on 26th Nov and went directly from Chhukung to 6250m on face and back to BC same day. 27th at BC for rest. 28th afternoon went to Polish C2 at 6200m and slept there. 29th up to 7000m and back to BC same day. Decided to wait for Profit: too dangerous to climb alone on direct route (too dangerous for Batard) and to use Polish route too easy with Polish ropes in place. Profit wanted to climb Polish route, Batard would also and go faster than he. If Profit going top direct route, Batard not interested in climbing with him because Profit slower and it would wear carrying too much gear and summit not possible. Profit, who did not invite Batard to join him, said he was not interested in Polish route. They met at Namche on 1st Dec and Batard did not return to Chhukung; abandoned idea of climb. Batard cannot do what Beghin or Messner (or Kukuczka) can do: climb slowly steadily with heavy load; Batard can only go "very high and very quick." Batard declared he was not interested in following the Polish autumn 1989 route and using their ropes but only in making his own new route more directly to the summit than the Poles line. But he found his direct line too dangerous for a his kind of solo bid and abandoned his attempt after having reached a high point of 7000m in only two days climb. "I cannot do what Beghin or Messner can do, climb alone slowly, steadily with a heavy loads; I can only go very light and very quick." He left the mountain before Profit and Lucas began their climb.
Accidents No accidents
Achievement -
Agency Unknown
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450659
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marc Marie Bernard Batard M 1951 France Leader Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roland Guenot M 1947 France BC Manager Triel-sur-Seine, Yvelines, France Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT89401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:227-228 (1990) -
LHOT89401 MM - - - 132:10 (Mar 1990) -
LHOT89401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022703/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-South-Face-Solo-Winter-Attempts - - -