Lhotse | 1987 S Face

A Poland expedition to Lhotse in 1987 via S Face, led by Krzysztof Wielicki. Summit reached on 29th October 1987. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 529
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT87301
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Krzysztof Wielicki
Sponsor Lhotse S Face International Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy, Mexico, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-09-06
Summit Date 1987-10-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 53
Total Days 56
Termination Date 1987-11-01
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8300m due to wind and no more strength in team
High Point (m) 8300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,5200m),C1(09/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6100m),C3(20/09,6600m),C4(27/09,7100m),C5(04/10,7450m),C6(14/10,7800m),xxx(29/10,8300m)
Route Notes BC below Chhukung Peak, west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier C1 at rocky party (on face) High point at biv in cave. This time only 50m above last expedition's high point and line is possible. Problem to C5=none. They began from 7800m. This time put ropes to 8300m. Could not move above this bivouac point because of wind that blew up during night. Only 4 climbers did most of climbing work besides Wielicki and Hajzer (Dasal, Konopka, Osika and Pawlikowski) and then were exhausted after 50 days. On 30th Wielicki and Hajzer descended to BC because of wind and now no other strong climbers able to continue. Now also getting cold. Left BC 1 Nov. From "Kazdemu Jego Everest", Dasal Czeslaw Jakiel was killed instantly by an early morning (5 am) ice-block avalanche shortly after leaving C1 for C2. Jakiel was with two others who escaped injury. To Ministry of Tourism Mountaineering Section Report about accident on Sept 15 Just after we established Camp 2 (at 6200m on Sept 14), we had 2 members in C2, 2 members in C1 (5750m). Our programme for Sept 15 was that, from BC will start next team to C1 (Czeslaw Jakiel, Walenty Fiut, Alois Brugger). They began walking from BC at 5:30 am crossing the Lhotse Glacier. At 6:20 am they have started to climb by snow stones slope towards the south face of Lhotse. After few minutes they have seen a big avalanche, it began very high on the right side of south face. They tried to escape, but avalanche came very quickly. Alois Brugger had fallen to the small crevasse. Walenty Fiut fixed his ice axe and kept himself. Czeslaw Jakiel walked last and they didn't see what he was doing, that moment. After avalanche came and Alois Brugger tried to find out friends. He found Walenty Fiut about 100m below, he was injured but alive and 20m for Czeslaw Jakiel, unfortunately he was dead, probably due to strong hit on his head (whole on back side). In the meantime avalanche pression had reached BC. Olev friends took binoculars and they have seen somebody running between victims. Immediately they started to rescue them. That accident have seen two members from C1 and they went down too. About 1 hour after accident, all members (except Kurt Walde and me) reached that place and began to help victims. They put Walenty Fiut on the board with diagnose...he has fracture left leg and hip and probably ribs. He was in very bad condition, before he lost consciousness and after he has been in shade. Alois Brugger was well. Members again have checked Czeslaw Jakiel, but he was dead. At 9 am they send Sardar Ang Kami to Namche Bazar for helicopter. Me and Kurt Walde reached accident place at 11:30 am. We decided to carrying Walenty Fiut to BC and secure Czeslaw body. BC we have reached at 4 pm. On Sept 16 we carried Walenty Fiut 20 minutes down, BC where we found good platform for helicopter, it was about 5100m high. Their we made a biv. Afternoon we have gone to Czeslaw body and we have made a funeral. We left him in about 15m deep crevasse and fill up up ice, snow and stones, close to accident place at 5300m below the south face. On Sept 17 at 9:30 am we have got a helicopter rescue, we put Walenty Fiut on stretcher and he flew with leader towards KTM (11:30 am).
Accidents Jakiel killed by avalanche on Sep 15; Fiut broken leg from same avalanche
Achievement Highest point ever reached on S Face
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449895
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Elsa Flor Avila Bello F 1963 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Student, civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Alois Brugger M 1959 Italy Climber Valle Aurina, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Student, civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Czeslaw Jakiel M 1949 Poland Exp Doctor Sopot, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Falco-Dasal M 1952 Poland Climber Chrzanow, Poland Engineer, geophysical Details Other expeditions
Walenty Fiut M 1947 Poland Climber Nowy Sacz, Poland Art historian Details Other expeditions
Artur Henryk Hajzer M 1962 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Student, world cultures Details Other expeditions
Alan Charles Hinkes M 1954 UK Climber Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England Alpine guide & photographer Details Other expeditions
Piotr Konopka M 1959 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Osika M 1952 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kurt Walde M 1962 Italy Climber Brunico, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Leader Tychy, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT87301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:201-202 (1988) -
LHOT87301 - Falco-Dasal, Miroslaw Kazdemu Jego Everest Wydawnictwo At, Warsaw - -
LHOT87301 MM - - - 118:5 (Nov 1987) -
LHOT87301 MM - - - 119:8-9 (Jan 1988) -
LHOT87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198820104/Potomac-Appalachian-Trail-Club - - -