Lhotse | 1986 W Face

A Italy expedition to Lhotse in 1986 via W Face, led by Reinhold Messner. Summit reached on 16th October 1986. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	527
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Reinhold Messner
Sponsor	Messner Makalu & Lhotse Expeditions
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	15th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	France, Switzerland
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1986-10-10
Summit Date	1986-10-16
Summit Time	1345
Summit Days	6
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8516
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	2
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	9
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	8
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Makalu (MAKA-863-01)
Campsites	BC(10/10,5400m),C2(14/10,6400m),C3(15/10,7450m),Smt(16/10)
Route Notes	BC at usual site C2 high in Western cwm, 1/2 hour from Lhotse Face C3 on Lhotse Face. Waited at BC for better weather, wasn't bad but was cloudy and windy. Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner up on 14th to C2 with Thomaseth (who went to C2 to film). Mutschlechner down on 15th to BC with tooth problem and others up to use Swiss tents at C3. On 16th Messner and Kammerlander again up in strong wind, risking failure in wind stronger than at camp. Other time Messner started for any summit. In couloir had strong wing at their backs which helped push them up but made descent difficult (but couloir technically easy to climb), almost all of face was hard snow. Team was "perfectly" acclimatized from Makalu climb. Paoletti - 17 Oct 86 Messner and Kammerlander on way to top left C3 at 8:00 am; at 7:00 am had radioed impossible wind but by 8:00 Ok and got a push from wind on their backs. Was very cold at summit. Made no C1. Leave BC 18 Oct for Lukla flight. Tent and journalists arrive KTM 20th. Moreto Paoletti - 16 Oct 86 Lhotse summit reached at 1:45 pm Messner and Kammerlander from C3. Good weather, irregular wind. All are very well. Descending to C2 where will sleep tonight. BC tomorrow. 22 chopper from Lukla to KTM. Paoletti - 15 Oct 86 C3 - Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas, 7400m. Today very strong wind; may have to descend to BC if cannot sleep they well, but Mutschlechner had to go down to BC with dental problem. Paoletti - 14 Oct 86 Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas. Arrival at C2 6400m today. Hope C3 7200-7400m tomorrow and in 3 days from today hope for top. Weather not very good but snow has fallen off face so avalanche not so dangerous. All in good health.
Accidents	Messner slight frostbite on wrists from wind-driven cold
Achievement	-
Agency	International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)/Mountain Trav
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2449516
Year	1986
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	w face

Members

Field	Value
ID	16423
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Johann (Hans)
Last Name	Kammerlander
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1986-10-16
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	15
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433732
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	johann (hans) kammerlander
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16424
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Reinhold
Last Name	Messner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1944
Calculated Age	42
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Staben bei Naturno, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Farmer
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	1986-10-16
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	15
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	Messner completed all 14 8000-ers with this climb
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2429281
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	reinhold messner
Year of Birth	1944
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	42
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	16425
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Gottfried (Friedl)
Last Name	Mutschlechner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Brunico, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6400
Summit Date 1	1986-10-14
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1949-1991) Died 10 May 1991 on Manaslu from lightning
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	9
HCN	0
Checksum	2431192
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gottfried (friedl) mutschlechner
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16426
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Fernando
Last Name	Bernasconi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	BC Radio Operator
Residence	Dangio, Switzerland
Occupation	Electronics engineer and telecomunications expert
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2435678
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	fernando bernasconi
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	24
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	16427
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Denis
Last Name	Ducroz
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	France
Status	Cameraman
Residence	Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France
Occupation	Cameraman & alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	True
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2431012
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	denis ducroz
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Support

Field	Value
ID	16428
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Giuliano
Last Name	De Marchi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Exp Doctor
Residence	Belluno, Italy
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1947-2009) Died on 5 June 2009 in the Dolomites while ski-touring
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2430282
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giuliano de marchi
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	39
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	16429
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Giuseppe
Last Name	Enzio
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2433168
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giuseppe enzio
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	16430
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Renato
Last Name	Moro
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1946
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Film Team Leader
Residence	Milano, Italy
Occupation	Tour operator
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	True
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2429825
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	renato moro
Year of Birth	1946
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Support

Field	Value
ID	16431
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Member ID	09
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	1986
Season	3
First Name	Wolfgang
Last Name	Thomaseth
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Cameraman
Residence	Terlano, Bolzano, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide & cameraman
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6400
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2430421
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	wolfgang thomaseth
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Member

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander	M	1956	Italy	Climber	Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner	M	1944	Italy	Leader	Staben bei Naturno, Bolzano, Italy	Farmer	Details Other expeditions
Gottfried (Friedl) Mutschlechner	M	1949	Italy	Climber	Brunico, Bolzano, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Fernando Bernasconi	M	1962	Switzerland	BC Radio Operator	Dangio, Switzerland	Electronics engineer and telecomunications expert	Details Other expeditions
Denis Ducroz	M	1949	France	Cameraman	Les Praz, Haute-Savoie, France	Cameraman & alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Giuliano De Marchi	M	1947	Italy	Exp Doctor	Belluno, Italy	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Enzio	M	1955	Italy	Climber	Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Renato Moro	M	1946	Italy	Film Team Leader	Milano, Italy	Tour operator	Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Thomaseth	M	1947	Italy	Cameraman	Terlano, Bolzano, Italy	Alpine guide & cameraman	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	221
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Reference ID	01
Year	1986
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Moro, Renato
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	-
Citation	61:224-225 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4296
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Reference ID	02
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1986
Language	-
Citation	112:10 (Nov 1986)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7246
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Reference ID	03
Year	1986
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Kammerlander, Hans
Title	Absteig zum Erfolg
Publisher	Rudolf Rother, Munich
Publication Date	1987
Language	German
Citation	-
Yak 94	K21
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12366
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT86301
Reference ID	04
Year	1986
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-and-Lhotse-the-Last-of-Messners-8000ers
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
LHOT86301	AAJ	Moro, Renato	-	-	61:224-225 (1987)	-
LHOT86301	MM	-	-	-	112:10 (Nov 1986)	-
LHOT86301	-	Kammerlander, Hans	Absteig zum Erfolg	Rudolf Rother, Munich	-	K21
LHOT86301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-and-Lhotse-the-Last-of-Messners-8000ers	-	-	-