Lhotse | 1983 W Face
A Japan expedition to Lhotse in 1983 via W Face, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi. Summit reached on 9th October 1983. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 521 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT83301 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kazuyuki Takahashi |
| Sponsor | Kamoshika Dojin Mt. Everest Winter Expedition 1983-84 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 10th,11th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | S Korea |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-09-11 |
| Summit Date | 1983-10-09 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 7 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 14 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Everest (EVER-834-01) |
| Campsites | BC(11/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2.ABC(21/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7400m),C4(02/10,7850m),Smt(09-10,14/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall. See above much snow and wind. Had to come down from C4 after 2nd Oct to await clear weather and less wind. 1 Sherpa hurt in fall during training and sirdar frostbitten toes which will heal and he willl be able to climb Everest. Kagawa's brain affected by altitude in summiting and being escorted home by another member. Shrestha, Tourism - 17 Oct 83 14 Oct - 2 members and 1 sirdar reach summit: Kazuyuki Takahashi Shigeru Suzuki Sirdar Pemba Norbu, 33 Health condition of all fine. No mention regarding more attempts or weather. K Takahashi - 19 Aug 83 Takahashi, Hanawa and Kaji arrived KTM yesterday. Leave for BC after about 4 days. After Lhotse climb Hanawa comes to KTM for more supplies (winter tents, warmer jackets) for Everest climb while rest of team to spend 3-4 weeks resting at Hotel Everest View. Takahashi does not come to KTM. 25 Nov start into Icefall again for Everest climb. Purpose of expedition is to scale Everest and Lhotse climb is training for Everest, but also to make 1st Japanese ascent of Lhotse. Lhotse climb will make route from BC to C3 to be followed on Everest climb also, and these camps will have been established. But fixed ropes of Lhotse climb will have been covered by snow by Dec and useless for Everest ascent. BC doctor leaves expedition at end of Lhotse climb. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448410 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toru Asaji | M | 1947 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Maruko, Nagano, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsutomu Hanawa | M | 1947 | Japan | Member | Tokyo, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kunio Hata | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeshi Kagawa | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Surveyor | Details Other expeditions |
| Mariko Kaji | F | 1949 | Japan | Member | Tokyo, Japan | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Shuzo Kawada | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Niiza, Saitama, Japan | Worker, office | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsutomu Miyazaki | M | 1947 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Salesman, furniture | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazunari Murakami | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Plumber | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ozaki | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Kameyama, Mie, Japan | Plumber | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Norbu Sherpa | M | 1957 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yilajung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa | M | 1949 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Si-Young Song | M | 1952 | S Korea | Exp Doctor | Tokyo, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Suzuki | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Takasaki, Gunma, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyuki Takahashi | M | 1943 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | President, several sporting equip mfg companies | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Yamada | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Numata, Gunma, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LHOT83301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 58:238 (1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | JAC | Takahashi, Kazuyuki | Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 | - | 79:6-9 (1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | JAC | Takahashi, Kazuyuki | Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 | - | 79:19-26 (1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | MM | - | - | - | 96:10 (Mar 1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | MM | - | - | - | 97:10 (May 1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | IWA | - | - | - | 105:199 (1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | IWA | - | - | - | 105:35-36 (1984) | - |
| LHOT83301 | - | Takahashi, Kazuyuki | Everest Journal | Asahi Shimbum, Tokyo | - | jT14 |
| LHOT83301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423803/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse | - | - | - |