Lhotse | 1983 W Face

A Japan expedition to Lhotse in 1983 via W Face, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi. Summit reached on 9th October 1983. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 521
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT83301
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuyuki Takahashi
Sponsor Kamoshika Dojin Mt. Everest Winter Expedition 1983-84
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th,11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries S Korea
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-11
Summit Date 1983-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Everest (EVER-834-01)
Campsites BC(11/09,5300m),C1(17/09,6100m),C2.ABC(21/09,6400m),C3(27/09,7400m),C4(02/10,7850m),Smt(09-10,14/10)
Route Notes BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall. See above much snow and wind. Had to come down from C4 after 2nd Oct to await clear weather and less wind. 1 Sherpa hurt in fall during training and sirdar frostbitten toes which will heal and he willl be able to climb Everest. Kagawa's brain affected by altitude in summiting and being escorted home by another member. Shrestha, Tourism - 17 Oct 83 14 Oct - 2 members and 1 sirdar reach summit: Kazuyuki Takahashi Shigeru Suzuki Sirdar Pemba Norbu, 33 Health condition of all fine. No mention regarding more attempts or weather. K Takahashi - 19 Aug 83 Takahashi, Hanawa and Kaji arrived KTM yesterday. Leave for BC after about 4 days. After Lhotse climb Hanawa comes to KTM for more supplies (winter tents, warmer jackets) for Everest climb while rest of team to spend 3-4 weeks resting at Hotel Everest View. Takahashi does not come to KTM. 25 Nov start into Icefall again for Everest climb. Purpose of expedition is to scale Everest and Lhotse climb is training for Everest, but also to make 1st Japanese ascent of Lhotse. Lhotse climb will make route from BC to C3 to be followed on Everest climb also, and these camps will have been established. But fixed ropes of Lhotse climb will have been covered by snow by Dec and useless for Everest ascent. BC doctor leaves expedition at end of Lhotse climb.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448410
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toru Asaji M 1947 Japan Exp Doctor Maruko, Nagano, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Hanawa M 1947 Japan Member Tokyo, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kunio Hata M 1947 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Kagawa M 1956 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Mariko Kaji F 1949 Japan Member Tokyo, Japan Secretary Details Other expeditions
Shuzo Kawada M 1957 Japan Climber Niiza, Saitama, Japan Worker, office Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Miyazaki M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Salesman, furniture Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Murakami M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Plumber Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Plumber Details Other expeditions
Dawa Norbu Sherpa M 1957 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Si-Young Song M 1952 S Korea Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Takasaki, Gunma, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazuyuki Takahashi M 1943 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan President, several sporting equip mfg companies Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT83301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:238 (1984) -
LHOT83301 JAC Takahashi, Kazuyuki Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 - 79:6-9 (1984) -
LHOT83301 JAC Takahashi, Kazuyuki Lhotse in Autumn and Everest in Winter, 1983/1984 - 79:19-26 (1984) -
LHOT83301 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
LHOT83301 MM - - - 97:10 (May 1984) -
LHOT83301 IWA - - - 105:199 (1984) -
LHOT83301 IWA - - - 105:35-36 (1984) -
LHOT83301 - Takahashi, Kazuyuki Everest Journal Asahi Shimbum, Tokyo - jT14
LHOT83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423803/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse - - -