Lhotse | 1982 W Face

A New Zealand expedition to Lhotse in 1982 via W Face, led by Peter Hillary. Summit reached on 8th October 1982. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 520
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT82301
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Peter Hillary
Sponsor Lhotse Expedition 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-08-26
Summit Date 1982-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1982-10-12
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8230m due to avalanche danger and winds
High Point (m) 8230
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08,5500m),C1(16/09,6060m),C2(20/09,6500m),C3(28/09,7100m),C4(07/10,7865m),xxx(08/10,8230m)
Route Notes Canadians (Everest) and NZ Lhotse had BC, C1, C2 and C3 close together. On 8th Oct got to 27,000 ft and then were inside a cloud with storm of snowfall, white-out and wind; endangered by threat of avalanche. 4 men were 2-1/2 hrs from top without oxygen. Made no other attempt because would have had to go to BC for rest first and nightmare Icefall not fit to go through more than once. Didn't have reserves for more attacks and without oxygen and Sherpas were slower then Canadians. Had been fixing ropes in face for themselves and Canadians, thus were delayed till 8th Oct for summit attempt. Canadian Everest agent said NZ Lhotse would be one camp ahead but Canadians ignored that. Ala, Tourism - 11 Oct 82 Abandoned on 10 Oct due bad weather; arrived back to BC 10 Oct. Leave BC 12 Oct. 8200m highest point reached on Friday by expedition; how many reached, not known here. All well. Sharma, Tourism - 3 Oct 82 1 Oct 8:30 am C4 established at 7750m by Hillary and From. Burgess resting in C3. Strong wind on 1 Oct. 3 Oct all Lhotse in C2. Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82 Today 9:30 am 6500m pitched C2 by 3 members. Paul Moores slightly unwell stayed at C1. Established C3 within 4-5 days they hope. Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82 C1 yesterday 6060m 3:00 pm by Peter Hillary, Paul Moores, Adrian Burgess and Fred From. C2 in 4-5 days. All in good health. Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82 2 members and 2 Sherpas moved into icefall today. Do not know whether they will stay at C1 or return to BC. Hillary & Burgess - 1 Aug 82 Probably have deposit camp at top of icefall, ABC in mid-Cwm, a camp at beginning of Lhotse face and perhaps another camp mid-face. Maybe 1 or 2 H-A porters to top of Icefall. Reach BC late Aug, spend perhaps 6 weeks acclimatization trekking, carrying loads to deposit camp, moving up Cwm and putting tent at bottom of face. Then early to mid-Oct make push up face to summit. No oxygen.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448043
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Littleton, Colorado Alpinist Details Other expeditions
William Robert (Fred) From M 1956 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Physicist (University of Queensland) Details Other expeditions
Peter Edmund Hillary M 1954 New Zealand Leader Auckland, New Zealand Author Details Other expeditions
Paul Anthony Moores M 1952 UK Climbing Leader Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT82301 AAJ Burgess, Adrian - - 57:224 (1983) -
LHOT82301 AJ Moores, Paul Five Miles High Without Oxygen - 89:59-62 (1984) -
LHOT82301 - Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter Two Generations Hodder & Stoughton, London - H322
LHOT82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
LHOT82301 - Hillary, Edmund & Hillary, Peter Ascent Doubleday, Garden City, New York - H322
LHOT82301 NZAJ Hillary, Peter Lhotse '82 - 36:71-76 (1983) -
LHOT82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198322402/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Attempt - - -
LHOT82301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%2059-62%20Moores%20Lhotse.pdf - - -