Lhotse | 1980 W Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse in 1980 via W Face, led by Ricardo Cots Trullas. Summit reached on 15th May 1980. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1912
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT80102
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Ricardo Cots Trullas
Sponsor Expedicio Bages Himalaia 1980
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-03-26
Summit Date 1980-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 50
Total Days 61
Termination Date 1980-05-26
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to route difficulty, fatal accident and shortage of time for further attempts
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 16
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Permit for Everest
Campsites BC(26/03,5300m),C1(01/04,6400m),C2(04/04,6400m),C3(15/04,7360m),C4(26/04,7900m),xxx(15/05,8400m)
Route Notes Bahi & Perez - 25 May 80 Perez and Frontera tried for summit on 27 April only; reached 8150m found couloir without snow which meant 100m bare rock which would require fixed rope. Then after that rope was fixed and on 15 May 2nd attempt by 4 men: Perez, Pasang Nima, Ludwig and Sonam Girme; reached as follows: Sonam Girme, 8000m Ludwig, 8200m Pasang Nima & Perez 8400m This time much snow and very hard to make route at 8:00 pm, Pasang Nima oxygen finished. This snow avalanched next day and then accident and C4 entirely carried away. From C2 members went up and found at bottom of face one Sherpa alive but badly injured. Other 3 men not hurt but had to come down without fixed rope. Accident happened when were crossing yellow band at about 7500m. More avalanching destroyed C3 on 20 May; no one in it, Poles could see clearly. Then warm days and lot snowfall, so too dangerous to go on face. Sherpa morale hit by death; 6 members not still strong for Pillar route. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80 Lhotse/Everest: abandoned both mountains; decided yesterday and leave BC 26 May. Shortage of time. No information regarding highest point reached or who made last attempt. Never went up after Sherpa buried at C1. Asked permission by South Pillar day after Poles climbed; permit given. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80 Leave BC 26 May Shortage of time South Pillar difficult face; Col long Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80 Pasang Nima, 21, died yesterday 8:50 pm at C1 2 Spaniards uninjured; to C1 with Pasang Nima; tried to take him to BC not impossible through Icefall; had hoped helicopter could go to C1. Not yet decided about further summit attempts. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80 Yesterday 2 members went on summit attempt but failed and returned C4. Avalanche from Lhotse icefall hit at 7600m while 2 Spaniards and Pasang Nima Sherpa descending from C4. Spaniards are safe but Sherpa seriously injured - neck cut. Both Spanish expeditions helping bring him down. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80 27 April summit attempt by Juan Frontera Torres, 1940 Javier Perez Gil, 1948 28 April same 2 tried again and again failed, descended to C2 that day. Others to BC on 28th. Future plans not given. All well. Reason why failed or how high actually go not given. Jordi Vinoly, Deputy Leader - 6 Feb 80 50 oxygen bottles for summiters sleeping in C4 and climbing above; also for making route in couloir and sleeping in C5. About 16 HA Sherpas Arrive BC about 20 March 7 members now in KTM; rest including leader arrive KTM 17 March. Spaniards (Catalans) had permit for Lhotse and Everest but made no attempt on Everest. Leader was Cots. Josep Montfort was the leader at the time of applying for permit in 1974, but did not come with the expedition.
Accidents Pasang Nima Sherpa died of injury received from avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447165
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jaime Badrenas Villa M 1955 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Antonio Bahi Albuquerque M 1944 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Mechanical engineering technician Details Other expeditions
Jaime Barnils Folguera M 1941 Spain Climber St. Cugat del Valles, Barcelona, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Enrique Bonastre Mauri M 1945 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Manager of factory producing motors (engines) Details Other expeditions
Salvador Maria Cabre Playa M 1954 Spain Climber Igualada, Barcelona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Ricardo Cots Trullas M 1940 Spain Leader El Masnou, Barcelona, Spain Manager of insurance firm Details Other expeditions
Juan Frontera Torres M 1940 Spain Climber Castellbelli y Vilar, Barcelona, Spain Worker in textile factory Details Other expeditions
Caridad Garcia Sanchez F 1940 Spain Member Barcelona, Spain School teacher & psychologist; doing research on expedition Details Other expeditions
Montserrat Jou Parrot M 1943 Spain Member Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Wholesale salesman of ceramic art objects Details Other expeditions
Juan Llasera Parera M 1958 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Technical designer (designs machinery) Details Other expeditions
Franz Anton Ludwig M 1933 W Germany Climber Sarnen, Obwalden, Switzerland Worker in chemical factory Details Other expeditions
Ramon Majo Lluch M 1940 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Manager of telegraph office; member of city council Details Other expeditions
Francisco Xavier Perez Gil M 1948 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Wholesale saleman of mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
Frederic Puig Soler M 1958 Spain Climber Castellbelli y Vilar, Barcelona, Spain Architectural technician Details Other expeditions
Josep (Jose) Salvans Macia M 1948 Spain Climber Olost de Llusanes, Spain Sheep-and-cattle farmer Details Other expeditions
Jorge Selga Brunet M 1958 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Electrical-engineering technician Details Other expeditions
Jordi Vinoly Serra M 1956 Spain Deputy Leader Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Electronics-engineering technician Details Other expeditions
Juan Vinoly Serra M 1958 Spain Climber Manresa, Barcelona, Spain Schoolteacher Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT80102 AAJ Cots, Ricard - - 55:253-254 (1981) -
LHOT80102 MM - - - 74:13 (Jul 1980) -
LHOT80102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125303/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Attempt - - -