Lhotse | 1979 W Face

A Poland expedition to Lhotse in 1979 via W Face, led by Adam Bilczewski. Summit reached on 4th October 1979. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 515
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT79301
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Adam Bilczewski
Sponsor Silesian Himalaya Expedition Lhotse 1979
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th,8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Norway, W Germany
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1979-09-03
Summit Date 1979-10-04
Summit Time 1250
Summit Days 31
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1979-10-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 22
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,5400m),C1(06/09,6050m),C2(10/09,6500m),C3(17/09,7200m),C4(24/09,7850m),Smt(04,09/10)
Route Notes Koisar & Bilczewski - 20 Oct 79 When we see other side of Lhotse, this route not logical and there was great risk. Heinrich, Szulc and Chalecki in late Sept from C3. 3 reached South Col and saw this. Most go around rocks and unlogical; much more logical from C4 direct to summit but strong winds drove them into normal route via colouir for protection. Weather very clear and sunny but wind very strong. 3 gendarmes on Chinese side. 3 members to summit without oxygen: Kukuczka, Czok and Niklas. 1st planned 5 and 5 in each of 2 summit parties but late reduced to 4 and 4 members of 2 summit teams. No 3rd team planned, but had support teams. Very good co-operation with Germans in Icefall in making route. No Sherpas, so all members worked very hood. All reached C2 twice or more; 11 to C4. Hans Van Kaenel - 19 Oct 79 (Everest expedition) Poles tried to cross Col and climb from north but found north side too dangerous and difficult; cornices, rock gendarmes, avalanche danger. So actually used same route as Van Kaenel's German expedition in spring 1977. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 9 Oct 79 (From LO on 7 Oct) Summit 4 Oct: 1) Zygmunt Heinrich, with oxygen 2) Janusz Skorek, with oxygen 3) Jerzy Kukuczka, no oxygen 4) Andrzej Czok, no oxygen At 12:50 hours on top; Nepal and Poland flags, photos; stayed 30 minutes. All well. Other 2 summits teams to attack. Kosiar - 9 Aug 79 Most members with baggage leave KTM 10 Aug, Koisar and Bilczewski leave 11 Aug - meet at Lamosangu and all leave Lamusangu 12 Aug on march-in. Tourism Ministry has specifically stated expedition is permitted to cross South Col and climb to Lhotse's summit from east - may divide summit assault into 3 teams: 1) from Col towards top on East Face make route part way and return to Col camp 2) go to summit from Col and descend via Lhotse West Face 3) go to summit via Lhotse West Face East Face summiters will be out of radio contact with BC while they're on East Face. 2nd team at Col to keep contact with them. Whether to divide into 3 parties as above depends on weather and speed of progress: if it takes 6-7 weeks to get very high, this can work, but if takes 8 weeks, will go to top the easiest way possible. Border must be at Col and over ridge to Lhotse, Lhotse "Intermediate" and Lhotse Shar summits, but Ministry did not raise the subject and neither did Poles. Ministry denied permit to climb all the way to Lhotse Intermediate because it's a summit, but not on list. Koisar & Bilczewski - 1 Aug 79 Route = South Col and East with C5 on face about 8250m, descent perhaps by West Face. Leave KTM soon as possible after other members arrive by truck from Bombay. 6 to 8 weeks for climb. No Sherpas above BC. Have 20 climbers. Popowicz and Szulc not counted. Popowicz not above BC and maybe not there; Szulc not above BC. [Note: Popowicz went to C3]. Use oxygen, above 7800m for sleeping and above 8000m for climbing. Letter from Heinrich - 24 Sept 79 Sept 17th we established camp 3 on the altitude 7200m. It was established by the team Adam Bilczewski, Janusz Skorek, Andrzej Czok, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Baranek. It is located to the right of the Geneva Ridge on the face of Lhotse. During the tow next days the camp was arrived through 4 members teams who carried endorsement. On Sept 24th the same team headed by Bilczewski established camp 4 on the altitude 7850m in around 2 pm. Last week the weather was not very good. Strong wind in the Western Cwm, snowfall and fog make the climbing difficult. But last two days (23 and 24 Sept) was very nice weather, sun no clouds. Letter from Heinrich - 23 Sept 79 Our expedition has established the camp 2 on Sept 10th, 9 o'clock am on the altitude 6500m. It is located under the face of Mt Everest in the upper part of Western Cwm. The camp 2 was established by A. Czok, J. Skorek, A. Heinrich, J. Kukuczka, J. Baranek and Howard Nesheim. In the camp 2 there are 3 tents. Now all members transport the equipment to endorsement camp 2. Weather it still good. Letter - 16 Aug 79 After 22 days caravan the expedition arrived the Sept 3rd, the Base Camp. The first part of the caravan from Lamosangu to Namche Bazar was very bad. Porters still ran away. The naike has stolen some goods and equipment and also ran away. At last in Junbesi the very young sirdar Nima Sherpa leaved from the caravan. He has no experience and was not able to control the porters. We must every day arrange new porters. At last the caravans was divided in 4 parts arrived Namche Bazar. The new sirdar Anu carried on without trouble, very correctly the caravan in 5 days from Namche to BC camp. We arrived BC the Sept 3rd. The September 6th was established camp 1 above the Icefall, on the altitude about 6050m. The weather is good all members are by good health and condition. During the caravan very helpful was our liaison officer, Mr Gurung. He is our real friend and do all for success our expedition.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446940
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ignacy Nendza M 1944 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Janusz Baranek M 1937 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Adam Bilczewski M 1934 Poland Leader Gliwice, Poland Ceramic engineer Details Other expeditions
Janusz Chalecki M 1933 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Cholewa M 1940 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Leszek Czarnecki M 1939 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej (Leszek) Czok M 1948 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Zygmunt Andrzej (Zyga) Heinrich M 1937 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Jan Kielkowski M 1943 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Geological engineer Details Other expeditions
Maria Kielkowska F 1942 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Chemist (technical university) Details Other expeditions
Jan Koisar M 1937 Poland Exp Doctor Katowice, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Kozubek M 1929 Poland Deputy Leader Gliwice, Poland Metallurgist Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Krawczyk M 1948 Poland Climber Kalisz, Poland Technician, wood Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Maciej Kurek M 1940 Poland Climber Opole, Poland Government official Details Other expeditions
Wieslaw Lipinski M 1946 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Havard Nesheim M 1956 Norway Climber Tromso, Norway Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Robert Niklas M 1931 W Germany Climber Seelze, Lower Saxony, W Germany Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Popowicz M 1937 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Janusz Skorek M 1950 Poland Climber Opole, Poland Teacher, engineering Details Other expeditions
Anna Swiezynska F 1932 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Szulc M 1932 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT79301 AAJ Brniak, Marek - - 53:609 (1980) -
LHOT79301 HJ Bilczewski, Adam Polish Lhotse Expedition 1979 - 37:7-14 (1979-80) -
LHOT79301 - Bilczewski, Adam Lhotse, Czwarta Gora Ziemi Krajowa Agencja Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - B368
LHOT79301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
LHOT79301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
LHOT79301 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
LHOT79301 MM - - - 70:14 (Nov 1979) -
LHOT79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060901/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Polish-Ascent - - -
LHOT79301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/4/polish-lhotse-expedition-1979/ - - -