Lhotse | 1979 W Face
A Austria expedition to Lhotse in 1979 via W Face, led by Erich Vanis. Summit reached on 4th May 1979. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2087 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT79101 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Austria |
| Leaders | Erich Vanis |
| Sponsor | Austrian Lhotse Expedition 1979 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th,6th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Switzerland |
| Approach | Lukla->Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-03-07 |
| Summit Date | 1979-05-04 |
| Summit Time | 1700 |
| Summit Days | 58 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 16 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/03,5400m),C1(04/04,6100m),C2(08/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7350m),C4(03/05,7850m),Smt(05,10/05) |
| Route Notes | Vanis - 28 May 79 9 May - Vanis, lady member, 2 Sherpas and Schell [plus Goeschl] reached 250m below top and had to turn back from storm. Axt - 10 May 79 At Kathmandu Guest House tonight and Lali Guras tomorrow. Must wait in KTM for baggage and then to Innsbuck. At top 5 pm, 1:30 am at C4, in moonlight, but strong wind. Axt: both feet all toes and part of foot and nose and little part of cheek water in eyes froze on eyelashes; -35 degrees. Ladrieter: nose also will be Ok; 2 fingers right hand may lose top joints; all fingers right had somewhat serious and left hand not so serious. Took off gloves to clear blowing fine snow into snow goggles during ascent and descent. Frostbite in night. Up very late because am bad weather report with strong wind and intended to go down but at 9:00 am decided instead to go up. Left C4 at 10:30 am after getting ready (including oxygen) after 2 nights at C4 without oxygen. Each man had 2 oxygen bottles and started using oxygen when started climbing. Left one used bottle each about halfway to top but not high enough. At bottom of very narrow colouir left 1st bottles at about 8100m at 12:30 pm. Then came worst part: climbing rock in couloir with crampons, the steep ice and 100-150m below top, "I almost couldn't go up - terrible sudden weakness and when reached summit realized had climbed without oxygen but with mask on." Ladreiter also finished his oxygen but at summit; at top at 5:00 pm. Now was very late, very cold and windy and we tried to get down as quickly as possible. Very hard to go up with oxygen and down without because possibility to freeze is very great and also possibility to fall. Going up was quicker then going down for us. Rock climbing was very difficult because in couloir no moonlight; rock climbing in couloir 50m out of 500m couloir. Could see almost nothing in this very narrow part. Arrived C4 at 1:30 am. Only one tent left out of 2 which other was destroyed in wind of 4/5 May. No others in C4. Took 2 hours for Axt to take off crampans before getting into sleeping bag. 6:00 am 6th told on walkie-talkie had reached top. Ladrieter went down at 9:00 am on fixed ropes all way to C2. Axt left at 11:30 am. Stayed C2 that night. Used oxygen from C3 to C4 but not high flow. Schindler came to KTM to help Axt and Ladrieter. Yesterday 6 tried to reach summit but in afternoon there was snow and wind and 200m below top they stopped + Schell was carrying 1 empty oxygen bottle - they were: Dawa Tenzing Pasang Temba Vanis Mrs Steinmann Schell Goeschl All 6 went back. Sherpas to C3 others C4. Goeschl and Schell to try again today perhaps without Klausbruckner and Schier. 1 April 79 - evening Klausbruckner of Lhotse to Bobby Chettri from BC "We have now been three times in the fall and forced the way 3/5 up towards the Cwm" Klausbruckner - 12 March 79 Re Everest: agreed by Tourism that at end of Lhotse and Yugoslavs' Everest climbing, Tourism will permit one party from each expedition to climb other's peak, but this not likely since both expeditions will put all effort into sending maximum number of our members atop own peaks - plus weather, weariness, long Everest route via West Ridge, etc etc. Vanis & Klausbruckner - 10 March 79 West Face to Lhotse couloir (nearly to South Col); West Ridge would need more climbers and equipment so did not ask for it. Steinmann arrived KTM about 25-27 March Schell and Goeschl arrive KTM 30 March leave for Lukla on 12 March - BC about 22-23 March after acclimatization climbing around Pheriche. C3 = depot only; no sleeping there because of avalanche danger from Nuptse. 4 tons baggage total. C5 at 7850-7900m will be highest camp. April to fix camps and build up supplies; first attempt in early May; hope all members except probably doctor to summit. . 16 Sherpas above BC including Dawa Tenzing who is sirdar. Oxygen for climbing for most members, if not all, above C5. Lali Guras on return. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446787 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wolfgang Axt | M | 1935 | Austria | Climber | St. Johann, Tirol, Austria | School teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Iwan Exnar | M | 1944 | Switzerland | Climber | Itingen, Switzerland | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rainer Goeschl | M | 1940 | Austria | Climber | Admont, Styria, Austria | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruno Klausbruckner | M | 1945 | Austria | Deputy Leader | Vienna, Austria | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hans Ladreiter | M | 1944 | Austria | Climber | Schladming, Styria, Austria | Alpine guide & railway signalman | Details Other expeditions |
| Karl Oelmueller | M | 1947 | Austria | Climber | Vienna, Austria | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hanns Schell | M | 1938 | Austria | Climber | Graz, Styria, Austria | Businessman (part owner of numerous shops & department stores) | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Schier | M | 1945 | Austria | Climber | Maria Enzersdorf, Lower Austria, Austria | Engineer with construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Schindler | M | 1936 | Austria | Exp Doctor | Vienna, Austria | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ruth Steinmann | F | 1936 | Switzerland | Climber | Zurich, Switzerland | Furniture restorer & decorator | Details Other expeditions |
| Erich Vanis | M | 1928 | Austria | Leader | Vienna, Austria | Furrier | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Temba Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Ghat, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LHOT79101 | AAJ | Axt, Wolfgang | - | - | 53:608-609 (1980) | - |
| LHOT79101 | HJ | Vanis, Erich | Austrian Lhotse Expedition Aulex 1979 | - | 37:3-6 (1979-80) | - |
| LHOT79101 | MM | - | - | - | 68:13 (Jul 1979) | - |
| LHOT79101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060700/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse | - | - | - |
| LHOT79101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/3/austrian-lhotse-expedition-aulex-1979/ | - | - | - |