Lhotse | 1975 S Ridge-W Ridge

A Italy expedition to Lhotse in 1975 via S Ridge-W Ridge, led by Riccardo Cassin. Summit reached on 6th May 1975. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2297
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT75101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Riccardo Cassin
Sponsor Italian Alpine Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1975-03-29
Summit Date 1975-05-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 52
Termination Date 1975-05-20
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,5300m),C1(03/04,5950m),C2(11/04,6500m),C3(03/05,7200m),xxx(06/05,7500m)
Route Notes 5 Sept 79 Kunaver says they were on Nuptse, but see [below] Messner Aut 1979 here. Route really South Ridge on far left of face to West Ridge, similar to Japanese 1973 and 1976 routes. 4 Sherpas injured by avalanche 20 April. C3 destroyed by avalanche 7 April. Messner - Aut 79, re Lhotse Spr 1975 [Ales Kunaver had told me Italians actually climbed on eastern ridge of Nuptse's South Face]. We reached top of big snowfield and start of rocks on face still part of Lhotse, east of lowest saddle between Nuptse and Lhotse, west of 7703m. Ales Kunaver - 5 Sept 79 Italian Lhotse expedition actually never was on Lhotse: they went up on eastern ridge of South Face of Nuptse to top of snowfield and stopped climbing (walking) where rock began. Messner - 25 May 75 Highest point reached was 7400-7500m on 6 May by Gogna and Barbacetto. Afterwards May 7 night avalanche hits C3 ocuppied by Leviti and Barbacetto. Avalanche air pressure destroyed camp and for 10 days too dangerous to go up to C3 because too much snow but C2 and C3 after that decided to stop. South Face direct possible will be climbed in 20 years, biggest problem of Himalayas. 2 or 4 persons very well acclimatized up in 4-5 days in alpine-style and with lighter plastic tent equipment then presently available. South Face to left possible now with good weather. Cassin: made 6 expeditions and this 6th one. More problems: 2 avalanches and sick doctor and 1 month every base camp 2 avalanches 20th April and BC moved; 4 Sherpas not badly hurt. After 1 week saw direction too dangerous with expedition. MP Khanal - 16 May 75 (from LO on 15 May 75): Lhotse abandoned from 15th due bad weather (7400m assumed highest). Leave BC 20 May. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 75 After reaching 7400m altitude, weather became very bad and all members and Sherpas have come down to BC and have not yet decided whether to abandon climbing or not. Leave BC 20 May. MP Khanal, MFA - 9 May 75 Route up to 7400m prepared to C4 on 7 May. Avalanche again at 9 pm. 2 tents C3 slightly damaged, but Leviti and Gogna escaped unhurt. MP Khanal, MFA - 30 April 75 Heavy snowfall hampering progress to C3. MP Khanal, MFA - 25 April 75 Lhotse resumed climbing on 23 April. 3 members and 6 Sherpas started up. Injured Sherpas recovering well. MP Khanal, MFA - 22 April 75 Lhotse LO reports their BC being transferred to safer place. All members and Sherpas busy with this. Injured Sherpas being taken to Khunde Hospital. MP Khanal, MFA - 21 April 75 Avalanche on Lhotse injured 4 Sherpas at BC 20 April at 6 am: Pasang Norbu Ang Chetar Lhakpa Puncha Kitar Chierego (In Ktm) - 9 April 75 Letter from Cassin received yesterday: 6500m 6 April, 1st and 2nd camps established. Route not very easy but is possible. Began to climb by Japanese route [hope in a month to return with victory]. All climbers in good conditions. BC is already finished (completely stocked). Chierego had edema and pneumonia; stays in hospital still; hopes to leave KTM after 5-6 more days. Piussi left KTM 4 days ago returning to expedition. MP Khanal, MFA - 7 April 75 C2 6300m 6 April by 2 members and 2 Sherpas (no name given). Gogna & Cassin - 16 March 75 18 March all will be in Lukla 8 already there (3 Sat 5 today) 7 in KTM now 1st group in Namche on 18th and wait there for others. All reach BC 23-25 March; better not to go fast. 10 Sherpas including sirdar. Gogna - 8 March 75 Fly to Lukla after 1 week. To BC at end of Lhotse Glacier on west side at 5300m before 25th March. Not same as Japanese 1973 whose route was to Col on ridge but Nuptse and Lhotse. Italian will 1st try South Face direct to Main Peak. Not really interested in Intermediary Peak but could go that way if better climbing; could also go Japanese way if direct not possible. 6 or 7 high camps; summit about 20-23 May. South Face is quite like Annapurna I South Face, same difficulty. Faces unclimbed in world others are South Face of Everest and North Face of K2. Cassin - 4 Oct 74 Lhotse 1975 South Face 15 members including Reinhold Messner Riccardo Cassin (Lecco, Italy) to be leader 13 alpinists 1 leader 1 deputy Letter from Lhotse BC, April 2nd 1975 by Riccardo Cassin Italian Lhotse expedition decided to try a new route in the western section of Lhotse South Face, which was attempted by a Japanese party on spring 1973. In the last two days it was reached the place in which tomorrow we will establish our Camp 1, at 6000m. All the climb is equipped with fixed ropes. It is lightly snowing every afternoon. Our doctor, Mr. Chierego, was evacuated today from Dingpoche to KTM. He was sick by "edema polmonare." Another member, Mr. Piussi, flied with him to KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445324
Year 1975
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-w ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Riccardo Cassin M 1909 Italy Leader Lecco, Italy Dealer in sports goods Details Other expeditions
Franco Chierego M - Italy Exp Doctor Verono, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Luigi (Gigi) Alippi M 1936 Italy Climber Piani Resinelli, Lecco, Italy Hotel manager & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe (Det) Alippi M 1934 Italy Climber Abbadia Lariana, Lecco, Italy Dealer in sports goods & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aldo Anghileri M - Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Salesman Details Other expeditions
Giovanni (Gianni) Arcari M 1939 Italy Climber Monza, Milano, Italy Worker Details Other expeditions
Sereno Barbacetto M 1939 Italy Climber Bolzano, Italy Employee Details Other expeditions
Mario Conti M 1944 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Iron worker & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alessandro Gogna M 1946 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Photographer Details Other expeditions
Mario Curnis M 1936 Italy Climber Nembro, Bergamo, Italy Worker Details Other expeditions
Franco Gugiatti M 1941 Italy Climber Sondrio, Italy Employed Details Other expeditions
Aldo Leviti M 1950 Italy Climber Bolzano, Italy Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Fausto Lorenzi M - Italy Climber Aosta, Italy Army Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Climber Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy Funes alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ignazio Piussi M 1935 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Employed Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT75101 AAJ - - - 50:515 (1976) -
LHOT75101 HJ Cassin, Riccardo Lhotse, 1975 - 34:147-149 (1974-75) -
LHOT75101 - Cassin, Riccardo Lhotse 75 Club Alpino Italiano, Milano - C77
LHOT75101 - Messner, Reinhold The Challenge Oxford University Press, New York - M336
LHOT75101 - Messner, Reinhold Die Herausforderung BLV, Munich - M336
LHOT75101 MM - - - 44:10 (Jul 1975) -
LHOT75101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Lhotse - 66:38-42 (Mar 1979) -
LHOT75101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651501/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-South-Face-Attempt - - -
LHOT75101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/34/31/lhotse-1975/ - - -