Lhotse | 1974 From SE Barun Glacier via Lhotse Shar

A W Germany expedition to Lhotse in 1974 via From SE Barun Glacier via Lhotse Shar, led by Gerhard Lenser. Summit reached on 23rd May 1974. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 513
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT74101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 From SE Barun Glacier via Lhotse Shar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Gerhard Lenser
Sponsor West German Expedition to Lhotse
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach Tumlingtar->Shipton La->Upper Barun Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1974-04-05
Summit Date 1974-05-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 48
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1974-05-25
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at Shartse summit
High Point (m) 7459
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Shartse illegally (SHAR-741-01)
Campsites BC(05/04,5400m),C1(13/04,5750m),C2(16/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6500m),C4(07/05,6600m),C5(08/05,6900m),Biv(22/05,7100m),xxx(23/05,7459m)
Route Notes Warth - Feb 83 Spring 1974 Makalu/Shartse expedition had 4 Sherpas who went above BC. MP Khanal, MFA - 18 Dec 74 Shartse not officialy climbed by Lenser's expedition. HMG has no official report of it from expedition and LO doubts they were able to do so. Did not have permit for Shartse. Permit was for Lhotse via SE Ridge and Lhotse Shar. Bach - 30 May 74 Arrived ex-Tumlingtar today alone Other 3 arrive 6th June in charter Good success on 23 May summit of Shartse 7500m on way to Lhotse by Diemberger and Warth and came directly down because great difficulty with weather. 7th May 1st attempt by Warth and Nawang Tenzing but during night thunderstorm with 1m snow and had to come down and waited till 15th. BC at "U" of Barun Glacier at 5300m C1 - in icefall at 5600m - east of "a" - then west C2 - 6150m just below 6200m pass C3 - C4 and C5 on ridge north from pass C3 - 6500m C4 - 6600m C5 - 6900m C6 was for last night at 7100m before summit attempt on 23rd 1:45 pm reached summit Sharste. No frostbite, no accidents or other problems. From Shartse to Peak 38 to Lhotse Shar is a new ridge route to Lhotse Shar. Bach reached C3. Lenser reached C4 before snow and ice avalanche which completely destroyed C4 after 8 May. Don't know exact date because no one there. Others now on way to T'tar - 20th Bach left BC - 25th others left BC Ridge wss more difficult then expected; combined with weather was tremendous. Last at least 2 weeks by bad weather so no time to go no to Peak 38. Makalu had already given up on 14th. Cho Polu - 6734m Southeast of Lhotse 1st ascent - NZ (Hillary) 1954 spring (Norman Hardie) Pethangtse - 6710m (22,014 ft) East of Lhotse 1st ascent - 1954 spr - NZ (Hillary) 2nd ascent - 1954 aut - French (Franco) 3rd ascent - 1955 spr - French (Franco) 4th ascent - 1964 spr - Japan (Rikkio U led by Hirostoshi Fukuda) Nairz - 16 May 74 C6 6700m. Lhotse team message received 8 May said they trying for this in next couple of days, but weather was bad during following days. MP Khanal, MFA Advance party making good progress. Established base camp on Barun Glacier on 6 April at 5400m, C1 at 5700m, C1 at 5700m on 8 April and C2 (by Diemberger and Warth) at 6000m on 10 April. Lenser joined advance party. Deacock to Cheney - 3 April 74 Lenser was at Tumlingtar yesterday, having flown there from Lukla. See Nairz letter of 5 April about small, ill-equipped advance party and sick doctor. Lenser, et al - 15 March 74 Diemberger and Warth leave KTM Monday for Tumlingtar and drop Lenser off at Lukla enroute. Lenser Lukla/T'tar on 24 March. Will approach Lhotse via 7500m peaks; will do what they can. Diemberger hopes to join Austrian Everest expedition 1978. Lenser - 7 March 74 Diemberger only man to have 2 8000m 1st ascents. "We will not go back without any peak." Cho Polu, Pethangtse, etc all around; might try these or 7500m peaks. Lenser - 6 March 74 Leave next week, go via Barun Glacier. "Will do what is possible to do." 3 Germans and 1 Austrian 2 arrive last week Lenser today Diemberger (Austrian) Sun or Monday Letter from C. P. Bach Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Warth and me left Tumlingtar on the 18/3. We got enough porters till Sedua, then the troubles began. We had great diffiuculties to get porters till Makalu base camp, they were cheating and difficult to handle. At last we reached our BC the 5-4-74, that is situated 1 day further in the glacier than Makalu BC. Altitude 5500m (in feet 16,500 ft). Today Diemberger and Warth established Camp 1 under the ridge/saddle of Cho Polu/Shartse in 6000m altitude. Mr Lenser managed to transfer the rest of the equipment from Lukla to Tumlingtar on 31/3. So he will join us in a couple of days here in our base camp. Then the group is together and we hope our expectations will be fulfilled.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444975
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) from se barun glacier via lhotse shar

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kurt Diemberger M 1932 Austria Climber Salzburg, Austria Formerly a high-school teacher; now cameraman & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Klaus-Peter Bach M - W Germany Exp Doctor Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Hermann Warth M 1940 W Germany Climber Ried bei Mering, Bavaria, W Germany Assistant in Univ of Munich in education & philosophy Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Lenser M 1929 W Germany Leader Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Professional cameraman Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT74101 AAJ Diemberger, Kurt - - 49:195-196 (1975) -
LHOT74101 HJ Diemberger, Kurt The Austrio-German Lhotse Expedition, 1974 - 33:207-209 (1973-74) -
LHOT74101 - Warth, Hermann Tiefe Uberall Rosenheimer Raritaten, Rosenheim, W Germany - W71
LHOT74101 MM - - - 37:9 (Jul 1974) -
LHOT74101 MM - - - 42:10 (Mar 1975) -
LHOT74101 DAV Warth, Hermann Deutsche Lhotse-Expedition 1974 - 100:89-93 (1975) -
LHOT74101 DAV - - - 100:130 (1975) -
LHOT74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519502/Asia-Nepal-Shartse - - -
LHOT74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ - - -