Lhotse | 2019 W Face

A Nepal expedition to Lhotse in 2019 via W Face, led by Chatur Tamang. Summit reached on 16th May 2019. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10283
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT19108
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2019
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Chatur Tamang
Sponsor Cha-Tours Treks & Expeditions Everest-Lhotse 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, Mexico, Russia
Approach BC by helicopter
Basecamp Date 2019-04-15
Summit Date 2019-05-16
Summit Time 0920
Summit Days 31
Total Days 40
Termination Date 2019-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,5350m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(26/04,7200m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16,22/05)
Route Notes BC 15/04 5350m C1 23/04 6000m C2 24/04 6500m C3 26/04 7200m by Tomov, Runova, Danyalov C4 15/05 7800m Smt 16/05 by Pasang Chiring and Sadetskiy at 9.20am (with O2), Tomov and Runova at 1:30 pm (w/o O2) Smt 22/05 by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Sherpa at 6 am 16/05 summit team left C4 at 2:30 am. On the ascent, the climb was quite straightforward, however, the climbers were tired. For the descent, see section “Ivan Tomov’s death”. 22/05 summit team left C4 at midnight. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am, they rested for a few hours and continued to C2, where they reached at 4 pm. On 23/05 down to BC. Other members: Danyalov reached C3 on 26/04 on acclimatization rotation. However, when he was at BC and heard about Tomov’s death, he decided not to go up. Casasola reached C2 on 24/04. He did not sleep well and did not acclimatize well so he abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 09/05. Team left BC on 25/05by foot. Oxygen: Used from C3 to top to C3 by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Zarok, Saddetskiy and Pasang Chhiring Tomov did not take oxygen until he collapsed at C4 Runova took oxygen from 7700m on her descent to 7000m (she did NOT use O2 on the ascent). Ivan Tomov’s death: On his way up Tomov was very tired. Gabriel Filippi talked to him, but Tomov did not respond. He thought he had hypoxia. On his way down Tomov met Ali Sadpara and Monica Witkowska and stayed in a tent with Sadpara at C4. Sadpara said Tomov was very tired and thirsty, but they did not have enough gas to prepare water. At 4 pm, Runova called BC and said she was descending, but had problems finding the couloirs due to bad visibility. BC told her to call every hour, but she failed to call at 5 pm. They were worried about her and sent up Pasang Chhiring, who was at C3 with Sadetskiy, with oxygen. At 8 pm, Pasang Chhiring got back to C4 and saw Runova in her tent and said she was fine. She had arrived there at about 7:30 pm. In the meantime, Sadetskiy had descended to C2. After Runova had told Pasang Chhiring that she was fine, he descended to C2, where he arrived at midnight. Runova was in another tent, but she did not know that Tomov was still at C4, she thought he had gone down, but he was in the tent with Ali Sadpara from Pakistan. He said Tomov arrived there at about 3:30 pm. In the morning of 17/05, Ali Sadpara called Runova and said that Tomov had a problem. Runova radioed BC. She gave him dexamethasone and oxygen (there was oxygen at C4 as Tamang, the expedition leader, had sent it up as they did not have news from Runova). Runova bumped into Mohr and Mingote who helped her to drag Tomov down. They managed to get him down to about 20m below C4, where he died at 1:30 pm. Pasang Lama and Pasang Dorjee from Makalu Extreme were at C2 that morning and left at 10 am to go up to help him. However, Tomov had died in the meantime. They met Runova at the Yellow Band (7700m) and gave her oxygen, put her on a short rope and dragged her down to C2, where she arrived at 4 pm. On 20/05 Ivan’s body was dragged to C2 by the Sherpas and then picked up by helicopter.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Chatours Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID EVER19135
Checksum 2462709
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chatur Kumar Tamang M 1973 Nepal Leader Chhando, Kanku-4 - Details Other expeditions
Israfil Ashurly M 1969 Azerbaijan/Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Owner of telecommunication business Details Other expeditions
Mario Alberto Casasola Jacinto M 1967 Mexico Climber Cancun, Mexico Business owner Details Other expeditions
Asset Danyalov M 1987 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty, Kazakhstan Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Anastasia Runova F 1995 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Biomechanical worker Details Other expeditions
Georgy Sadetskiy M 1963 Russia Climber St. Petersburg, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexander Telnov M 1979 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Legal director Details Other expeditions
Ivan Yuriev Tomov M 1984 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Merchandiser Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Zarok, Namche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Chhiri (Pasang Tshering) Sherpa M 1993 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.